Jonnoh wrote:
RNY997 wrote:
easy job....
a few tips though.
1. always fit a new felt into the holder inside the LH end.
2. fit the pinion so its mating teeth are 180 degrees out of sync from how it came out. eg no wear on the pinion teeth when its in the straight ahead position.
3. set the pinion preload without the rack installed.
4. always use a new pinion seal.
5. switch the stake locknuts LH to RH side so the old staked parts go in a different spot when locked up.
6. only use the track rods if the "ball" part is smooth and it sits level or inside the end of the threaded nut when you look across it at eye level.
7. fit a grease nipple in the middle of the bearing plate and use EP grease. forget putting oil inside it....it will leak out.
have fun.........
Ive got the rack out now, only done 40,000 miles. Seemed fine, no play etc so wasn't keen on pulling it apart. But do you recommend a grease nipple? Or should I use something like semi fluid grease that I think is used in modern cars?
Jon
I used to rebuild them in a past life and used 90W oil as per the book but it always leaked out over time. I started using moly EP grease after rebuilding other types of british racks to their lube spec and never had a problem.
If you drill and tap the flat bearing plate and fit a 45deg nipple you can reach it from under the car.
Pull the boots off and drain it vertically overnight.....Pack it with grease and fit new boots. Grease the nipple with half a dozen strokes to push grease through the pinion bearings.
