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 Post subject: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:43 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc
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Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2005 8:11 pm
Posts: 1347
Location: Wellington,
Given my recent fan destruction i am in the need of a new radiator

I currently have a 14 fin per inch copper rad fitted no over heating.

If i was to say fit a 9 fin per inch would there be much difference in cooling.

I am not that keen on an alumium rad.

Any one understand the thermodynamics of radiators.

Thanks

kiwiinwgtn


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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
alloy ones are fine, light, strong, cool very very well & are cheap as chips
we run the chinese ones in all our engines, turbo twin cams & all

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 9:02 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 8:54 pm
Posts: 2010
Location: Greenhill, SA
I'll be going either Radtec (UK) or Race Radiators (Vic) once mine's together.

I've used an eBay one for a short-term winter car with fairly mild requirements but don't trust it for a more regularly used car.

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 9:03 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:24 pm
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Location: Cherrybrook NSW
I ended up buying a new cooper one but would have been happy with an alloy one I was told some of the alloy ones had a few issue. I probably just had a sales job done on me but I preferred the Black colour and after installing a new Radiator I Hope I don't have to do it again for a while

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:22 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
TheMiniMan wrote:
alloy ones are fine, light, strong, cool very very well & are cheap as chips
we run the chinese ones in all our engines, turbo twin cams & all


The only problem is that they don't sell 40mm radiators with the overflow pipe facing backwards. They are all facing forwards?

Other than that I don't have a problem with overheating with stock radiator and 16 blade metal fan, at all, full stop? I don't know why anyone other than QLDers need to run a cooler radiator than necessary? Ideal running temp for performance is precisely 93 degrees last time I checked, so if the alloy radiators are making your temp guage run at 50% (50 degrees) all the time as some people are reporting, I can't see that this is any good?? I measured my gauge years ago and 90ish degrees is about 8/10ths of the way to "H" and this is what my car runs at in the summer sitting in traffic at 35 degree day. In winter it runs too cold IMO. I am going to measure it again before this pending rebuild this year to double check again but I don't think I will change anything.

In fact I remember 10 years ago when i built the engine, I ran a really cold thermostat 74deg thinking this was a good thing to manage heat for 120bhp. Then I measured everything and the car ran too cold and eventually ran 88 degree thermostat to make sure the engine would run around 90-95 degrees.

Further to this I plan to run Evans waterless for the new rebuild and perhaps go one step further and redistrip the block to get rid of the rust. Surely this would make it run EVEN cooler? (or will Evans make no difference temp wise?)

Since Original Poster is from Wellington I find it hard to believe that you'd run any hotter than me or anyone in Australia?

Genuine discussion. Thoughts Matt?

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:30 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:24 pm
Posts: 383
Location: Cherrybrook NSW
I put a 88 degree thermostat in as well and it runs perfect now sitting in traffic the needle just goes just above N but after moving off goes down just below N
using a inferred thermostat I can't get a reading higher then 95 degrees anywhere on the engine so it seems it likes this combo

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:42 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
oldblade wrote:
I put a 88 degree thermostat in as well and it runs perfect now sitting in traffic the needle just goes just above N but after moving off goes down just below N
using a inferred thermostat I can't get a reading higher then 95 degrees anywhere on the engine so it seems it likes this combo


So are you running a two core or a regular 3 core radiator? what fan? Are you running the rubber radiator surround between it and the inner wing? As I said I run this setup with a 3 core, 16 blade metal fan and it's fine, 120bhp and all

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:14 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:24 pm
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Location: Cherrybrook NSW
16 blade no rubber surround I will get one I have a 3 core all good

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 7:37 am 
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religious status
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Rubber surround does nothing, Rovers have a BIG gap to the inner wing.
I ran a UK 8 fin rad for a while and it did run hotter. A 2 core is worth the extra $$.

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:06 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 2:52 pm
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Location: Brisbane Northside
Lillee wrote:
The only problem is that they don't sell 40mm radiators with the overflow pipe facing backwards. They are all facing forwards?


Chinese alloy rad with overflow facing backwards like this (advise if I am wrong :? ):

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ALLOY-AL ... 5c0e7a5325

Also looking for an alloy rad (QLD).

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 10:56 am 
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1360cc
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Yeah the rearward facing overflow is for early cars with no overflow tank.

That looks good except not sure about those captive nuts (?) being welded directly onto the radiator rather than a spacer where holes are drilled into?? I dunno ask Matt!

EDIT: they sell those on ebay too but they have them as "Core size 40mm" and "Overall Size 50mm" so not sure who is right?

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 12:39 pm 
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1098cc
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I run this one, alloy, rear facing overflow and seems very well made

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From here: http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... A5000.aspx

Quote:
Mini Spares own exclusive designed Lightweight aluminium type high efficiency radiator for fitment, rigidity and appearance, unlike others on the market with large ugly fixing nuts on the side, or where the header tank is 10mm wider that fouls the cowlings.The lower hose outlet is also positioned correctly to fit the Cooper S although the radiator will foul the inner wing cowling without modification. (the higher the pressure cap the hotter the water has to get to boil).Water boils at 212F and when under pressure can raise it by 3 degrees for every pound of pressure.Under testing the tubes can take 21 lbs pressure but the hoses etc might not.

Always use distilled water and change anti freeze regularly to stop Gulvanic corrossion as original radiator to engine block materials have changed.

2 inline 22mm wide core tubes with 9 V shape or equivalent of 15 fins/gills per inch, braszed aluminium core giving 25% more fin area and 30% more cooling area than a standard 3 core radiator this item really does cool very well.

Heat transfer from the coolant to air is better on this brazed radiator as there is no thermal barrier from solder. Remember -your engine needs to get to a proper working temperature for the oil to function correctly so never run your car too cool. It is always a good idea to fit an electric fan thermostatically controlled for road cars.

The drain hole plug is fitted at an angle so it can take a sender unit as required for later cars 1990 on.(See fitment below).

Outlet pipe at top comes out facing backwards. Lower outlet set at correct angle suitable for "S" variants plus all standard minis. Uses METRIC cowling bolts. Bolt holes may need to be adjusted on later one piece cowlings and modified on early 2 piece cowlings.

Fitted with a drain plug which is the same size as our screw in type sender unit C-ARA4445-The sender unit will need purchasing if required.

CHECK BEFORE FITTING

Take the cowling from the engine and make sure it fits the radiator easily and file out mounting bolt holes if necessary, which makes life easier when fitting in the car. Make sure you fit short metric cowling to radiator bolts.

Place cowling in position loosely but do not attach until the radiator has been dropped in place and checked for fitment.(then fit to cowl). Ensure the front of the radiator where the top hose fits clears the lip of the wing to avoid damage.

You may have to cut the tab from the boomerang shaped upper radiator bracket that sits against the thermostat housing, to allow movement and modification to squeeze the top tank in .

Make sure the fan clears cowling all round.

The variants that make this radiator difficult to fit on post 1990 cars is that the engine is further forward and the subframe mountings might have wrong alignment.

The engine mountings also play a critical part in alignment as well as any previous accident damage repairs.

Some minor modifications maybe required on cars with air con fitted (overflow tube needs adjusting slightly depending on location of AC lines).

Made specifically for pre 1990 cars it has been adapted to fit later cars and has a drain plug which is the same size as the screw in type sender unit as fitted to later cars.

The header tank on this radiator is 10mm wider than standard biased towards the inner wing and on post 1990 cars where the engine is ½" further forward fitting is not straight forward but has been achieved by competent car Mechanic/engineers.

Please do not attempt to fit this radiator to 1275cc post 1990 cars unless prepared to make modifications as the fins will get damaged making it non returnable.

FITTING

CHECK Take the cowling from the engine and make sure it fits the radiator easily and file out mounting bolt holes if necessary, which makes life easier when fitting in the car.

Place cowling in position loosely but do not attach until the radiator has been dropped in place and checked for fitment.(then fit to cowl). Ensure the front of the radiator where the top hose fits clears the lip of the wing to avoid damage.

You may have to cut the tab from the boomerang shaped upper radiator bracket that sits against the thermostat housing to allow movement and modification to squeeze .

Make sure the fan clears cowling all round.

The variants that make this radiator difficult to fit on post 1990 cars is that the engine is further forward and the subframe mountings might have wrong alignment.

The engine mountings available also play a critical part in alignment as well as any previous accident repairs.

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:37 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:24 am
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Location: Wollongong
As others have said I wouldn't be to concerned about the rubber seal, the factory here gave up fitting them in the late 60s anyway I think. They make virtually no difference.


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)


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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:12 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:26 pm
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Location: Adelaide
I run a 1275 California Moke 4 core copper radiator in my van with the top inlet at the back and a rear facing thermostat housing. Mounted solid onto the inner guard at an angle so facing more into the grille, 4 blade comp fan, no cowl, no by pass hose, 74 degree thermostat with three 1/8 inch holes drilled in it. Seems to keep cool enough even on the hottest days.

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 Post subject: Re: radiators which one
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 9:09 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:24 pm
Posts: 383
Location: Cherrybrook NSW
I just checked I installed the 2 Core unit

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