Soooo, Greig did some fine work on the old mini, but in the interests of saving cash, left me with this one.

My speedo clicks, loud and clear. Louder and clearer and quicker the faster I go.
It's a 1987 Rover with the 3 clock dash setup.

I told him I thought the speedo cable was heading out and might need replacing, so he checked it out but it looks fine.

The problem is (now I'm testing my memory) that when the odometer 100m unit is turning, there's meant to be some cushioning in there to stop it clicking. It's no longer there and the clicking is eventually going to drive me crazy!
He could've sent the speedo off to someone but it would've been costly.


Does anyone have any recommendations as to my options, given I'm learning on my toes here?
How easy is it to replace the speedo? (User miniimports has some rover parts advertised including a speedo)

Thanks gang

_________________
Mini-less ... for now

Anyone?

I did a lengthy search of the forums but couldn't find anything.

_________________
Mini-less ... for now

Mine was similar Hoju. As I wanted to keep it for originality and original mileage, I stripped it and found a little spring that clicks up and down for the mileage cylinder had come off its holding bracket due to the circlip doova that holds it had broken. I acquired a second hand unit and swapped the spring and circlip out, put it in a drill and now ticks over fine. Fixed. May pay to pull yours out and have a check. May not be this but they are pretty easy to fauly find once out. Cheers.

Thanks for the reply, I'm due to change out the dash soon so it will be a good opportunity to fault find.

One thing I'm a bit prone to doing is opening something up and having little pieces all burst out everywhere on me. Is this going to happen with the speedo or am I pretty safe to not make the problem worse?

Another funny thing, not sure if it's related, but I went for a quick run very early this morning. The speedo said I was doing 70 but in no way did it feel like it. Can't guarantee it was an incorrect reading but any thoughts if the two could be linked?

_________________
Mini-less ... for now

Hmm, maybe it is stuffed. If you're sure of stuff and where it goes, take a photo first for reference. Then when you dismantle, lay it out in a row. Then call someone if in doubt.

To confirm whether the speedo is reading somewhere where it should, compare a steady speed, on the flat, against a GPS device (NAVMAN, TomTom etc)

Sounds to me like your speedo may need servicing...assuming the head is being driven correctly from the engine...

and

Its like brain surgery for beginners...don't try it if you don't feel confident

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Thanks for the cautionary advice! I'm definitely one of those that always has a go but sometimes makes things worse than they were in the first place.

If it is stuffed, is the better option to go the service, or can I fit a new speedo into one of the three clock dashes and keep the other two gauges?
Or just get used to the tick... Once it's ticking fast I know Im speeding!

_________________
Mini-less ... for now

Confucius say: Man who cannot resist having a go, sometimes end up in pickle!

If new are available...that's one way...others on here may know whether second hand speedos are available...ask around?

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/

Prisoner shaking head regularly and yelling out TIC...

Gestapo Interrogator: Ve hav vays of making you TOC!

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Another possibility is the spring circlip holding the odometer pawl/lever has become dislodged and was attracted to the magnet and cup that drives the speedo needle and is now jamming the needle.
Happened to me recently and I bit the bullet and, with much trepidation, pulled the speedo apart and found the problem.
Replaced said circlip from another speedo, dismantled and cleaned the odometer assembly, which hadn't worked for years, and so far its still working.

RonR

_________________
68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Yep miniron, exactly what I said in more technical terms though. Good stuff.

I've had my speedo out and gave it a good clean but now it is giving the incorrect spear reading does anyone have any tricks on where you should point the needle before the stopper to get the correct reading

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

You really need to mark the needle position on the cup before you remove it from the spindle.

There is a tiny white dot on the dial near the stop pin between the stop pin and the fuel gauge. This is supposed to be a starting point to mount the needle. On my MK1 S speedo it is adjacent to the H/B lettering.

You need to manoeuvre the speedo outer ring to get the needle around the stop to the dot. Be careful not to bend the stop pin.

Rotate the needle and cup to the 60 MPH position and mark the needle position on the cup. This also helps if you have a tacho so that you can measure the cable speed when the needle is pointing to the 60 MPH mark. IIRC its difficult to mark the needle position on the cup at the rest position.

The TPM (turns per mile) is also the RPM the cable needs to turn at when you are doing 60 MPH so you can set the needle position on the shaft accurately.

In the USA most if not all speedos have 1000 RPM as the cable speed for 60 MPH. The Smiths people seem to want to be different this time. (Its the USA that usually wants to be different to everybody else.)

For the MK1 & Mk 2 S and Clubman GT with the 3.44 diff the TPM is 1280 (this is marked on the speedo face in tiny lettering) which means the speedo cable is turning at 1280 RPM for 60 MPH.

To test and set it properly you need a drill that will run in reverse at this speed as the cable turns anti-clockwise when looking at the back of the speedo. Most electric drills will not run fast enough in reverse to do this.

Also be aware that there are differences between UK and OZ Smiths speedos as well as a number of differences in the way the odometer drive works apart from the different gears etc.

My MK1 S speedo has a plastic pawl arm, plastic odometer gears and a leaf spring to hold the pawl and rachet in engagement. This quite different to the UK speedos shown in "John Rhodes Smiths Speedo PDF". Google is your friend for this.
It took me a week with a magnifying glass to finally work out how to remove and dismantle the odometer shaft and gears as it is different to the above PDF. (Secret Smiths business)

OZ Smiths speedos use a brass arm and a long coil spring to hold the pawl and ratchet in engagement and IIRC the odometer wheel drive arrangement is also different.

Hope this helps
RonR

_________________
68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Yes...when it is being calibrated

On most I've seen, the needle or pointer sits somewhere about 6 o'clock when it is past the end stop...if you can drive the unit to a known revs you could then carefully pop the needle on...then carefully hold the spindle so that you can push the needle home without pushing down on the spindle...

Burt, like I said, if you are ham-fisted or not confident...leave it to someone who knows whats (what)

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

This thread may be of use, or even passing interest. I posted the Smiths UK speedo document mid-way through, but note the comment above about differences between the UK and Australian speedos.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74322

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks for the tips guys (and comedy value 9YaTaH! A master of puns).

Looks like it's something that I'll just end up making worse if I have a go at, and breaking it completely, or having a misaligned needle.
Still very tempted to have a go but, hmmm....

_________________
Mini-less ... for now