I have a noisy wheel bearing so time to replace, can anyone tell me the best type to use I have a Cooper S

Timken tapered ones. Not the cheapest, but they are the best.

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I have used aftermarket ones recently, they fit fine but I found spacers not quite right. One was .005" too thin and the other .006" too thick. Luckily I have a spacer collection, and a lathe.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is there a " How To " for wheels bearing just had a look and could not see one, can someone tell me if its worth doing yourself or should I take to workshop and get charged $100 an hour

Look in the how-to forum, I wrote one up.

Here- viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40640

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Pretty significant variances? And how do you turn them one the lathe? I thought they would be hardened?

The spacers are all soft. Both Timken and aftermarket.
I was more surprised that one kit had a spacer .010" thicker than the other kit. Shows thickness variance between bearings.
I have a Myford bench lathe it's ideal for this work.

Genuine Timken bearing kits have a correct spacer always, provided the centre web in the hub is not worn. They are worth the extra $$.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Pretty impressive the hubs were held in such high tolerance (1thou) in the 1960's. For those playing at home that's 0.0254mm. Not bad, you'd need a surface plate to measure the thickness of the spacer.

I thought I was being mad but I've held on to my spacers, but ditched the old bearings. Might come in handy.

The last set I replaced I took 4-5 thou off the spacers using sand paper.
Just place the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub them in a figure 8 and circular pattern.
Use a micrometer every 1 thou to check it is coming off evenly.
Took about 5 minutes each.

Sounds like they can be lots of trouble I'm pretty handy can I change them myself or is it to hard, also what special tools are required ?

Simple tools are enough. You will need a large socket to take off the CV nut, and a ball joint splitter. Each can be had from supercheap easily enough. Also a couple of decent drifts if you don't have access to a bearing press. They tap into the hub quite easily.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Can it be done with the hub in or does it have to come out ?

Has to come off the car. CV and driveshaft can stay.
I made a plate that bolts to the wheel studs, it has a 1" thick steel handle. I hold this in the vice for assembly. Also very handy for doing balljoints...
The spare holes were for other applications...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Please excuse me for hijacking this topic but I feel it is relevant.

Hey Doc, just a side issue. The spacer you refer to, is this the springy one that goes in before installing the inner bearing. It is about 5 mm thick, open at one end, springy like, with the inner cone up against it, not the other smaller spacer between the 2 bearings.

Thanks.

Nope that's just an inner seal spacer. Not needed as long as you don't push seal too far in.
Tapered roller front bearings, both Timken and copies have a steel tube spacer IN the kit. This goes between the bearings. It is selected to give the right preload with a NEW hub. But problems can arise with 50 year old hubs if the bearings have ever spun and worn the centre web.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.