I can't stretch the clutch arm spring enough to reinstall it.

I removed the clutch cover breather so I could get at the clutch slave cylinder to do the cup spreader, courtesy of Drmini.

Took a lot of effort to remove the clutch arm spring that sits above the slave cylinder.

Unbolted the M/C and supported it with some wire, whilst the hose was still attached.





Used a magnet to remove the piston.

Then a little squeeze on the clutch pedal and the rubber popped up.




Removed the rubber and used a magnet to remove the steel spreader and spring.






Removed the steel disc and reinstalled with new cup spreader and bolted M/C back in place.

I cannot get the clutch arm spring to reattached, I just can't stretch it enough to get it to clip back on.



Are there any tricks to doing this or should I just get a slightly longer spring ?

cheers

Put the spring on the slave cylinder, grip the other with vice grips and hook onto the arm.

[edit] But I took the spring off mine years ago and run without it. Clutch now self adjusts like 99% of other cars including all Rover Minis with a Verto clutch.
This is with an orange dot diaphragm and standard RHP release bearing. The sky hasn't fallen yet, and I'm not alone in doing this.
Hello 1071S.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I use a big flat screw driver with a nick cut out in the centre. Hook one end on the cylinder and the other in the nick/groove in the screw driver. Push and it's on. Simples.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

That sounds like a good idea using a screwdriver with a nick in it.

The small vice grips that I can get in there don't give me enough leverage and there's not enough room for the large vice grips.

The spring has gone flying a number of times with trying a normal screwdriver.

Thanks for the tip !

Unhook the end from the arm, then drop the spring into your tool box and forget about it.

Like DrMini and many others, we have not refitted that spring for ages and the clutch feels and operates much better.

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Don't listen to what I am saying... just understand what I mean.

you can install a weaker spring... I ran without a spring by accident and destroyed a thrust bearing in a weekend, but that was in 2004 and adjustment might have been off - no idea

if removing it altogether, you need to make sure that the gap between the arm and the wok is set correctly, if you don't have any gap the bearing spins non-stop and will crap itself pretty quickly

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I'm with Kev.. haven't used one (return spring) for years.....

No "if" about it... you do need to make sure there's a gap, spring or no spring. If you do have a spring you need to make sure the gap is correctly set; otherwise don't sweat it..

Cheers, Ian

Maybe a good feed of weetbixs will help

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

In the past I have removed the clutch arm itself, wacked the spring on each end whilst it is loose, then manovre the arm back on. Reasonably easy.

I always use a pair of side cutters. Put it on the arm end first.

BUT, I would also cover the hole where the breather came from. Just imagine dropping a spring washer or the cir-clip down there.

I reckon a big bowl of weetbix might help, too much of the soft life these days.

The only reason I did not remove the clutch hose was it was very tight and difficult to get at with the slave cylinder bolted in place, and then hard to hold the slave cylinder down when I had access to the hose.

I did cover the clutch housing breather hole before removing the circlip, more so to stop any fluid getting on the paint work.

Took the mini for a drive around the block after work today with no spring and boy does it feel different with the cup spreader in.

The clutch is not buried in the carpet like it has been since I bought the car, even with replaced slave cylinder, arm, bearing, MC and clevis pins.

Feels quite different being able to let the clutch out that much.

I did adjust the clutch and I am no expert, so hope I have it adjusted right.

Leaving the spring off brings the pedal up off the floor. It will be interesting to see how it feels with the spring back on.

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Don't listen to what I am saying... just understand what I mean.

I've never tried running the clutch without the return spring but it is a little bugger to get back on!
The important adjustment is the clearance between the clutch arm (or lever) and the little hex headed screw adjuster (that needs a 7/16AF spanner) and a locknut against the clutch cover (wok). As Simon K said, there must be a clearance here or the throwout bearing will always be running - as if you have just started to put your foot on the clutch pedal. Without the spring, it's easy to feel if you have a clearance. The amount of clearance you set between the arm and the head of the setscrew effects the amount of pedal travel before the clutch begins to take up.

Side cutters are good idea, you cut the ends off spring and throw it in the bin. The later minis did away with them. I have had a fair few cars, none of them had springs, never worn out bearings. Also, over the years most wear out the hole in clutch arm end and fall off, usually ending up in someones tyre. If you want it to "look right" just stretch the spring a bit and refit it , looks original but does nothing.

"......The amount of clearance you set between the arm and the head of the setscrew effects the amount of pedal travel before the clutch begins to take up..." IF you have the spring fitted..... Noting of course that there must be "some" clearance.

Without the spring, the system self adjusts - noting that its not just the lever clearance that affects clutch operation; all the other little clearances (pedal to master cylinder connection, etc etc) are all taken care of as well.

Cheers, Ian