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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:31 am 
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Hi all.

Was hoping someone could recommend somewhere to get a shell treated, want the few previous coats of paint and bodge jobs removed.

Soda or bead blasting i would assume wouldn't be as hard on the metal as sand and metal fillings?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 5:01 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yes that is right, but will take a little longer to do the job so will cost a few extra dollars to perform with the soda or glass bead. Soda has a relatively high rate of waste, so will cost quite a bit extra compared to any other media.

Saying that, sand can be handled carefully by professionals and the finish can be good if the media is fine through wear and tear, or deliberately purchased as a fine media. Just look around the yard at what they're blasting, or listen to their experience to tell you a tale. Got to be careful however as if handled poorly it will distort panels and etch the steel.

Glass, sand, plastic or soda, you will spend yonks chasing it out with compressed air, brushes and prods!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:43 pm 
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Hmm yes. lots of food for thought. :D I have called around a few places today quoted 2500 from a place that seems to be in the know with cars so might be worth a visit.

Thanks mick 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:23 pm 
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
There is also Redistrip in Blacktown which is a dipping process but be aware if your shell is rusty, a lot of it will disappear with that process!
Nearby, there is also Impact Glass Beading.

I have had shells of other makes done by both companies over the years.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 2:40 pm 
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Location: Camden
Ditto for 1310/71
Redistrip is excellent for engine blocks and sound, rustfree panels, but a R/H fuel tank that appeared only slightly rusty to start with, ended up as shadecloth.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:44 am 
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What are the pros/cons of dipping for rust removal.
I was going to get a shell blasted to remove paint/bog etc to determine what I am working with.
You warned above, that if your shell is rusty, it will remove a lot. Would you not want ALL rust to be removed?

'IANOB', how'd you go with quotes in SYD?

Cheers,
Steve


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:21 pm 
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Paint strip and then use a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. You can do the entire car in a day. Or do one panel at a time. Sure its messy, but for less than $100, it's cheaper by a long way.
Cheers
Aaron

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:09 am 
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ministeve wrote:
What are the pros/cons of dipping for rust removal.
I was going to get a shell blasted to remove paint/bog etc to determine what I am working with.
You warned above, that if your shell is rusty, it will remove a lot. Would you not want ALL rust to be removed?

'IANOB', how'd you go with quotes in SYD?

Cheers,
Steve


Steve I have gotten varied prices from companies (couldn't get through to a few atall) that do different processes and coatings when finished stripping so it's down to what your she'll is like and what your painter would like I think

Prices are near the 1800 to 2500 to have a shell blasted with either soda or glass which gets all paint and bog off without warping metal and then primed after in etch

Another place quoted 1200 to blast the shell and coat it in an epoxy clear coat which is apparently great stuff as filler can be applied direct and you can see the bare metal....(better than etch)?? This place didn't include doors and bonnet in the price tho another 200 each I think.

Then the stripping takes 3 weeks and there's a 3 month waiting list and a price of about 2300


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:14 am 
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aaron wrote:
Paint strip and then use a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. You can do the entire car in a day. Or do one panel at a time. Sure its messy, but for less than $100, it's cheaper by a long way.
Cheers
Aaron


Them knotted wheels are a great job indeed I had thought about using one but what about heat build up? Wounder would it cause warping...suppose it would depend on the user, I'd assume if you went easy and didn't concentrate on any one area for a time it would be fine??


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:58 am 
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Paint stripper is wonderfull stuff.

https://youtu.be/s7Iv42AOZIk?t=8m16s

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 6:36 pm 
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Ianob wrote:
aaron wrote:
Paint strip and then use a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. You can do the entire car in a day. Or do one panel at a time. Sure its messy, but for less than $100, it's cheaper by a long way.
Cheers
Aaron


Them knotted wheels are a great job indeed I had thought about using one but what about heat build up? Wounder would it cause warping...suppose it would depend on the user, I'd assume if you went easy and didn't concentrate on any one area for a time it would be fine??


I've done 4 cars with this method and never had warping.
Keep moving and it'll be all good.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:09 pm 
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I used Quikstrip in bankstown. Great job. I do recommend Jim. My bare shell & doors were done over Easter last year. No complaints, no warping.

I don't remember the price, but for some reason around $1.5k seems about right.
I have a tonne of photos, but my images are all corrupted after imageshak deleted all the links

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 12:32 pm 
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Bead Blasting - the Yanks call it Dustless...looks like a quick, effective and non-destructive way of stripping paint

https://www.youtube.com/embed/bCehkkTTe ... showinfo=0

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 7:24 pm 
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The only way is sandblasting I had a mini body blasted for $750.Near Windsor Sydney .Then you must use a 2 pack epoxy primer as soon as possible on the body .Any area that is repaired on the body will then need the same epoxy primer used. The only method to use with body filler is to lightly rub the primer with 180 grit abrasive paper usually aluminum oxide grit. This will ensure maximum adhesion of the filler. The best body fillers are the soft fillers easy to rub and flexible. Finish the filler with 220 grit, this will make sure there is no sink back after it is painted. All this depends on how much you want to spend.Ok to spend a lot on an S.
p767676. Sand blasting will work harden the metal but you can still repair the panels. Any good S blaster can do a body correctly using the right compound for the job. Hope this helps P767676


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:22 pm 
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Location: Sydney, NSW
The best option would be to get it abrasive blasted using something like garnet, the only thing is you might want to paint strip the roof or sand it back to make sure it won't be warped as they are the easiest part to warp. Also soda is a nightmare it won't remove rust and if there is any left sitting in between panels and other places it can cause corrosion.


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