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Asiemek
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:02 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2012 2:07 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Geelong
hi all,

looking at selling 1100S block no caps, surface rust, looks like its been bored out (unknown amount) also, what should I be looking at paying for a Mk1 S crank (if anyone has one)?
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TK
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:50 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
your block, $100?
to buy an uncracked Cooper S crank 800 to 1000 if standard to 010.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.
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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:32 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I agree with TK.
Block would be worth much more with original caps. Like $350+.
Buying new steel caps and line boring it will cost a heap of money.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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gtogreen1969
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:29 pm 
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1275cc
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Watch what this block goes for.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Morris-Coope ... SwjDZYdzls

Can't see any caps with it.
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timmy201
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:35 pm 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
gtogreen1969 wrote:
Watch what this block goes for.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Morris-Coope ... SwjDZYdzls

Can't see any caps with it.

The numbers on that looks like the same guy who stamped mine, it's an 1100S Auto block.

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gtogreen1969
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:43 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
gtogreen1969 wrote:
Watch what this block goes for.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Morris-Coope ... SwjDZYdzls

Can't see any caps with it.

The numbers on that looks like the same guy who stamped mine, it's an 1100S Auto block.


Haven't seen that format before. 12H169 / H695.
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timmy201
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:47 pm 
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gtogreen1969 wrote:
timmy201 wrote:
gtogreen1969 wrote:
Watch what this block goes for.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Morris-Coope ... SwjDZYdzls

Can't see any caps with it.

The numbers on that looks like the same guy who stamped mine, it's an 1100S Auto block.


Haven't seen that format before. 12H169 / H695.

The three numbers on the end are the serial number.

From way back:
Morris 1100 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Q for Morris 1100-
Maaaate, I have a block here from an 1100S auto, it's 12H169/H321
Any idea what vintage? :lol:

Jan 69 to May 69. Probably closer to Jan than May.

They only built the Morris 1100S automatic for five months and about 700 cars. The early cars had a fully imported powerplant with the 12H169/H and the later ones had the Australian produced one with the 12YA/A/H prefix.

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gtogreen1969
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:52 pm 
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I forgot about the early Auto Blocks. Mine was a later 12YEAH.

No mention of it being an auto block in the add.
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TheMiniMan
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 9:01 am 
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Location: Brisbane
usually nothing wrong with auto blocks really
very little fatigue with these, old ladys driving to church on sunday etc :-)

all that`s required to change to manual is-->

an oil pump adaptor plate (which we have hundred of in stock)
fit said plate, drill oil gallery right through to meet said oil pump adaptor plate
remove oil-pressure reliefe valve "Seat" , fill both "through-holes" & re-fit
& drill dip-stick hole
also remove all the excess studs from base flange
it`s now a manual block :-)
easy-peasy

normally these 1300 auto blocks are either std or 020 bore so excellent for reco
Matt
0407 135 656

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 12:19 pm 
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What Matt said ^^
I also found it needed a gasket between the oil pump spacer and the block.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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