Hi, I'm currently making good progress on my 1969 mini and just need some advice on the channel that runs at the top of the fender where it joins to the body. Originally on my mini it was completely filled up with bog and painted over (which had cracked). Whilst doing the body work I've cleaned it all out so there is now a channel that can be seen. I'm just wondering if there should be a drain hole in this channel? Should I just drill a drain hole in it so any water will go into the wheel well or should I just fill it in slightly with some sort of flexible filler or something? Currently it doesn't drain, I've had a look underneath and can't really see any drain holes (only had a quick look though).
I'm fortunate the rust hasn't got in there yet so I'd like to fix it so it won't cause any issues with rust in the future. I don't have another mini to look at for reference so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

I thought originally when the cars were new that the whole length of that joint was completely open i.e. a gap.


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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

The join between the front wheel arch panels too the windscreen wiper panel? I believe most people use Sikaflex and paint over it. This join/gap dose flex a lot so bog is no good.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I was planning on leaving the gap on my car open,

Brad

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During the day I work on English designed cars & on my own time I work on English designed cars....

Australian cars had an open gap. English and most New Zealand built cars had the gap filled with seam sealer.

You could use seam sealer and force it right down through join, then wipe out as much as necessary to give the illusion of an open seam. Once painted, any water that sits in it won't be a problem.

That seam may have been open when new..however. The guard /top panel join was extremely tight and if there was an actual gap, it would have been quickly filled with wax/polish. My (three year old) 850 was white and no actual gap was visible, just the shallow depression where the two panels met... IMHO, the rotodip/paint process would have filled/closed any opening between the panels originally.....

I would think modern paintable seam sealer would be the best modern solution.

Cheers, Ian

I agree with Phillb. The gap was factory standard, looked like a problem but wasn't a common rust site. I fishoiled my K when it was new (modern cavity waxes should also be good) and never had rust there.

There was no filler in the gap when the car was manufactured, the best solution which I have done to my 1970 cooper s is to clean the gap out if there is surface rust use a rust converter then the area should be primed, use a small brush. Fill the gap with an automotive gap sealer eg Sikaflex , then use a small plastic filler applicator on its edge to push down the gap sealer. Clean up the gap filler with prepsol or mineral turps you should be able to make the gap look original although it will be sealed. Good luck
P7676 If you suffer from depression or you are in a recession always keep your Mini in your possession.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be getting some Sikaflex in the next day or two:) I definitely want to keep some sort of visible line so this seems like the best solution.
I'll post some more photos up when its done.

Just personal opinion, but I think it looks better and neater with the original gap. The gap from rear of bonnet simply continues around to the seam.




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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)