1. How do you remove the out rigger bearings without breaking them
2. Why are the two upper bearings larger than the lower bearing
3. What are the differences between MK2 S differentials and ordinary Mini differentials

They all have 62 teeth.

The top diff is for Hardy Spicer steel universals;
The middle one, with nuts, is for earlier rubber universal joints;
The bottom one is for the pot joint inner universal used on later minis.
Many ratios used 62 tooth crown wheels including S and many 998 and 1098.
It was the number of teeth on the pinion gear on the end of the mainshaft that gave 3.44 (18t for S) or 3.647 (17 t for Deluxe) ratios.
The difference between S (mk1 &2)they had output shaft with bolt for Hardy Spicer joint and standard output shaft had nut for rubber unis.
Bottom diff might be from A Plus, although I don't know about those.

The crownwheels will have a part number stamped on them to tell the original ratio. I don't think you can mix and match a 62 wheel 3.44 with 3.65

The A+ diffs have different thrust washers on the diff pin and different part numbers on them
http://www.retrominisltd.co.uk/index.ph ... chapter=20

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Yes. Good point of clarification.
There are at least 5 different part numbered crown wheels, all with 62 teeth but to suit different pinions.

Thanks for the input so far guys.

1. How do you remove the out rigger bearings without breaking them
2. Why are the two upper bearings larger than the lower bearing
3. What are the differences between MK2 S differentials and ordinary Mini differentials

3. As Bill mentioned, Mk2 S has the Hardy Spicer output joints and 3.44 diff. You can tell the top photo is Hardy Spicer because of the bolts going into the output shafts. Mini-matics also had Hardy Spicer joints. Other minis had 3.44 diff ratios. I think the Cooper S was the only one to be factory fitted with Hardy Spicer and 3.44 ratio. It's possible they all have been rebuilt in the past - the bearings, diff pin, spider gears etc are all wear items.

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I assume you mean the large bearing on either side of the diff cage.
You will need a bearing separator and puller (if lucky) or a hydraulic press. If you are not reusing them, the bearing on the cage side can be drifted off as you can get behind it but can only hit the outer cup which can damage the bearing.
The bearing on the crownwheel is the difficult one needing the separator to do a neat job.
These bearings are long-lived, but worth replacing if the rest of the diff is being rebuilt.

I may need to replace internals but can't get to them until the bearing are removed. So as I gather from your post each bearing is in 2 pieces. Once I separate the bearing I can then remove the remainder from the shaft with a puller.

1. How do you remove the out rigger bearings without breaking them

Apparently I need an 18G2 service tool.

What does it look like so I can make one.

18G2 is a standard bearing puller. That's what I used on my car. It pulled apart my bearings but I wasn't going to reuse them

Image from AKD4935B
http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.u ... _lists.htm

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You need two podgers to work against the inner cage and the crown wheel bolt heads. By moving the podgers around the circumference the inner cage will come off the shaft with the rest of the bearing intact.

Are these the type of podgers your talking about davidE

They`re not called "outrigger bearings" they`re just called "Diff bearings"
the "outrigger bearing is a different item & located on the input-end of the gearbox, on the lower (input) shaft

the diff-bearings are easy removed with tyre-levers or podgey bars, & or hammer & big chizle.

there are many different types & brands of diff bearings,,, some larger/wider, others thinner etc,,, no matter tho they all do the same thing (part # LE11 or RLS11 etc)

the top diff is cooper-S (steel hardy spicer type) ...
the middle diff is std early (rubber U/J type)
the bottom diff is Rod-change (Potty type axles)

once you have the diff bearings off, then you can un-lock-tab the tabs on the bolts,,, undo the bolts
remove the crown-wheel
& you will see a small thin roll-pin in the carrier (visible under the crown-wheel mating surface)
, you can drift this pin out & then remove the diff-center-pin
all will fall to pieces then
it`s quite self explanitory once you have it all apart
easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

More akin to the style portrayed here (or the wrecking bars below)
http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Renns ... hand-tools