Hello,

Me and my Dad have just bought a 73 mini clubman and when we tried to bleed the clutch nothing appeared to happen. When the clutch is pushed down should we see some movement under the bonnet because there wasnt any. We loosed the bolt pushed the clutch down, tighten it up lifted the clutch up many times but nothing happened.

Any help would be much appreciated



and yes we did fill it up with fluid

Was the clutch arm moving?

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Jonathan
http://photobucket.com/albums/y64/FatMaserati/

nope no movement at all. I tried giving it a helping hand when the clutch was pressed down but it was a no go. The clutch kit has just been installed, maybe it was done incorrectly?

It feels like the clutch cable is moving though......

This method has never failed me in 40 years of tinkering:
1. Fill clutch MC with fluid.
2. Undo pipe connector on top of MC 1/4 turn.
3. Push pedal down once and hold it. Close pipe connector.
4. Let pedal up, wait 2 secs, loosen connector, push pedal down & hold it. Tighten connector.
5. Repeat this procedure until you get fluid and no air coming out of connector & pipe. Tighten connector up.
6. Top up MC, repeat this procedure using the bleed nipple on the back of the clutch slave cylinder.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've got a similar question.

I have just assembled the new motor, and have got the clutch/flywheel in, and the clutch cover on. Should it be possible for me to move the clutch arm(as in depress the clutch) just by pulling on the arm (motor still on bench)?

I want to know if I have stuffed up BEFORE i put the motor in the car!!

Cheers
Matt

Yes it's possible, but you will need a length of pipe over the arm, it takes a fair bit of force to do it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks for the advice mate but it's still a no go, we did the prodecdure quite a few times and nothing appeared to be happening. How many times do you usually push the clutch down before something starts to happen?
Any other ideas?

A trick for bleeding brakes that are hard to bleed (if they are hard to bleed there is usually something wrong)......

1) Get a clean oil can and fill it with brake fluid.
2) Get a piece of clear tube that will fit over the spout of the oil can and over the bleed screw.
3) Open the bleed screw and pump the oil can till the system is clear of air. Be carefull not to overflow the master cylinder.

I would try to find the problem first and fix it.

thanks for the tip but I'm not upto bleeding the brakes yet, i've gotta get the clutch done first

chances are I wont be able to bleed the brakes either

If no fluid after 3 or 4 strokes, I'd pull the MCs apart and put kits in. Or buy new MCs if you need to.
Kits are cheap and easy to fit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so you are not even getting fluid out of the clutch master cylinder may be stuffed from sitting you can get them new from carcrft in sydney for120.92 inclusive slave is49.64 and a new hose is17.02
they can ship it air freight 11.75 per 3 kg
or by road depending on where you are as to cost
there contact number is 02 9737 9944
i would imagine it would be round 4 kg max
makka
btw i dont work there i just think they have the best service and cheapest prices

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Have you changed the flexible line between the Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder? If it is the original then it could be collapsed internally.

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"Show me the Mini!"

Seal kit for clutch MCs (0.75" bore tin can one) are about $6 at Karcraft..
Seals are heaps cheaper than new master cylinders. If bore is still OK, they are just as good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Russ,,,when you say that a clutch kit has just been installed,,,do you mean that a clutch master cyl kit (rubber cups) has just been done???

If so, then maybe it has been fitted incorrectly & will need to be pulled apart again to see,,,like our good Doc says

But,,,whenever i do a master cyl overhaul( be it a clutch or brake) i """PRIME"""" the cyl on the bench before fitting it to the car to make sure there`s no dramas before spending all that time stuffing around fitting it to the car, only to find that it`s a no go,,,

It may well be that it`s still not primed,,, you can try to prime it in place by removing the pipe from the top, & then use your finger over the hole while someone pumps the pedal,,,

NOW!!!! Hang on a min tho!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,,,,if you do this then fluid can go all over the place wickedly!!!!! so wrap a wet rag (drenched with water) all around the finger on the hole thing first to avoid getting nasty brake fluid every where & all over your nice paint job (not good, quite yukky in fact),,,then pump away gentyl but quickly while holding slight pressure with your finger on the hole,,,this should bring fluid up pretty dam quick,,,if it don`t,,,then pull the cyl off & rip her apart & see what`s happening in there.

have fun

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

cheers guys, will remove the slave cylinder and have a look.

Will let you know how it goes.