I am not quite sure if I have this correct but it looks like the Moke radius arm repair kit has two sets of needle bearings and seemingly no awkward bronze bush that would require reaming.
Would this kit be better to fit to a standard Mini as it does away with the need to do some reaming with a tool that is hard to come by?
Assuming the radius arms are the same for moke and mini.

Just putting it out to all for some thoughts as I am tempted to the dark side and not have to buy a reaming tool.

I can see one issue that may or may not effect it.
I'm not sure but I think I remember the roller bearing being thicker than the bronze bush, this means the roller bearing would need a larger hole in the trailing arm.
The moke 13" wheel trailing arms are different and longer, this may mean that the arm was made to receive the roller bearing on both ends off the arm. I'm sure someone will clarify soon...

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Thanks I will get the micrometer out and have a look at the arm, very tempted to enlarge it if need be
I have been told the Moke arm is longer and has the shock in a different place
to me it would have made sense to have bearings on all minis rather than a softer metal bush that wears but hindsight is a great thing and having a mini second time around has led me to understand the use of much bad language, oh flip:-)

I don't know about moke arms but have just done my mini ones.
The needle roller bearing diameter is 1.063" and the brass bronze bearing is 0.95".
So unless the moke needle roller bearings are different sizes same as the mini, they are not straight swap.

The solid bushes are considered to be a more robust bearing that can cope better with lack of grease and contamination than needle rollers. They tend to outlast the needle rollers as well.

I was unsure either way in this but I figure the moke got the 2 roller bearings because of the extra loads of 13" wheels, and bmc would have had plenty of experience and data to make this decision by this time.
Second I don't think the load on the two ends of the trailing arms are equivalent, the roller on the inside next to the suspension knuckle joint is imo subject to the greater loads, this was supported by my discussions with my engineer when I was chatting to him.
If you are unconvinced look at the size of the outer brackets holding the trailing arms on compared to the heft of the pivot at the inside end, the adjustable camber and toe brackets are less again.
I think this difference in the loads at either end might explain you're experience, it's almost as if the length of the trailing arm axle is a lever helping the outer bracket / bush control the direction of the arm whilst the inner pivot takes all the load.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Yes bigwheel mokes have an outer needle bearing, it is bigger diameter than the standard bush. Won't fit a Mini arm.
I looked at machining a Mini arm out once but it's such an awkward thing to hold on a mill. To bore it in a lathe you would need a bloody big one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you could get a drill an appropriate size could you put the arm in the tailstock and the drill in the 3 jaw? Still need a big chuck for the tailstock though and I wouldn't be sure the hole is centre in the trailing arm.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

@fuzzy,
Maybe with a machine reamer in the headstock, but a twist drill won't give you an accurate size. It needs to be a nice tight fit.

Reaming radius arm bushes isn't hard if you have the gear.
Mini classic in Sydney does it, most Mini repair places too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I take your point about the unequal loads on the 2 ends of the pivot shaft; although when you add a hub, a wheel and a tyre to the setup, I would think the load moves closer to the centre of the pivot shaft?
There is a long-winded account of overhauling the radius arms at:
http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/rad-rep.html

The main thing I got from the article was the lack of lubrication due to the design of the pin and tube arrangement. Since the rotation of the shaft is only a few degrees and a solid bush offers a larger contact area than a set of needle rollers, the solid bush was a better choice, except when you want to replace it!

If you still have the original steel shrouds inside the arm, keep them. Many of the kits come with crappy thin plastic ones. These can crack, then you have the whole hollow arm filled with grease...!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for pointing that out. I did reuse the metal tubes as they looked better than the plastic.

And when the supplied composite bush was reamed to take the pin, there was no brass/bronze bearing material left - only the steel shell. Bought 2 solid brass/bronze ones.

Then maybe these will be of interest...
http://classicminisjapan.com/new-parts/ ... etal-tube/

Agreed, the plastic tubes are stupid.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss