Sewing machine oil in the dash pot works SO much better than 20w-50 motor oil
the change in sound and ease of starting is orgasmic everyone should try it
thanks Aaron and (man who had a toddler in pink hanging around his neck)!

i guess the problem to lastly address is that the breather hole in the top of the rocker cover is sucking in ALOT of air (this pointed out and agreed to blow air, not suck today at the Creek).
i removed the air filter housing while the car was running, covered up the air intake on the carby and pretty much NO change.
i covered the breather hole and more air sucked through oil filler cap.

there is MUCH more air being sucked through the oil cap and breather hole than the carby air intake. i stuck my fingers through it while running and got as far as the needle block.
throttle cable is responsive

are there any suggestions? (im going to get a new dizzy cap n rotor button very soon)

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

If you have a Smiths PCV valve on the inlet manifold, it sounds like the valve is not throttling the flow.
The way these things work is, the high vacuum in the manifold at idle pulls the valve in against spring pressure, and reduces flow.. and as vacuum in the manifold falls the spring pushes it open. They do jam up with crud...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeh kev i pulled it apart last night and found that the plunger was quite firmly stuck in the three-pronged holder.
i put alittle oil on it and popped it back in making sure it was movable by the spring.
ill check now to see if it got stuck again.
everythings great now, except very little air is being taken in by the carby
thanks

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

(man who had a toddler in pink hanging around his neck)!
The thing around the guys neck is a little girl, and she was holding onto her dad. His name eludes me now but he is a very nice guy, qualified mechanic and a VERY Strong little 1380, Would more than lickely blow the doors off every car i have seen.

By the way, glad the sewing machine oil trick worked. 20w50 is way to heavy.

Cheers
Aaron

went and bought the dizzy cap n rotor button today
poor guy didnt know what the hell it was, after flipping in the dizzy book for 10minutes
he came up with one name:
subaru wrx leone 82-86 $16. maybe thats why the whole thing pushes against my grill

maybe its placebo the engine runs more confidently now great

(man with toddler in pink hanging around his neck)
i think the girl in pink has a brother and his name is Nathan. they were splashin in the water with mum n dad yelling at them

and there was another man with a website and he had a nice half restored mini
and he had two daughters maybe that was him

or was it Fly without a beard?

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Sorry....I am a dumbass (sometimes)....what is the dash pot?

The round thing with the black knob on the top of the SU Carb. unscrew that knob and you will find where to put your dashpot oil.

Cheers

Aaron

Re dashpot oil you are SO right! I tried 20w50 once and the car was a slug! I was running with 3in1 (read: thin), and it had great throttle response (which can be a bastard on a rough road trying to keep my lead foot steady!), but it used to flatspot because the piston would rise too quick (I have a quick lift piston), so I had to run rich.

I'm running ATF at the moment to fix the flatspot, and it's pretty good too. One question: does anybody know if ATF is bad for paint, or is it the same as normal oil? I don't want to damage anything by dripping it.

Anto.

I wouldn't trust ATF on paint. It's glycol based... guess what, so is brake fluid...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's exactly what I thought. Do you know approximately what the weight of ATF is? I might just buy some proper SU oil, my local parts supplier stocks it. I guess that would be the best stuff to use, if the guys at skinners union use it....

Nothing wrong with ATF, just don't overfill it. Should be level with top of piston rod, no more. If it makes like Rotorua it's too full...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's not so much the problem, rather taking the dashpot out. No matter how hard I try, I always turn it upside down to clean it and get oil on my shoe

I could also try motorcycle fork oil, coz that's normal oil. About 10w I believe. 3in1 is about 5w I think.

I've heard fork oil is OK, but never used it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

aaaaaaw I remember the days when Id put Singer sewing machine oil in the SU pots... used to clean the pistons with wet and dry... all working peeeeerfectly..

ha ha got the webber now, hope it goes as well as it used to

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78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

I tried both ATF and sewing machine oil in the single 1 1/2" carb on the van. Massive flat spot when I floored it in both cases. Switched the carby to cancel out any issues with the dashpot piston and tried again. Had the same result. Swapped a few needles (leaner, richer) and had the same result. So I went back to 20W lawnmower oil.

I guess different engines need different dashpot oils!

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2