I am neediing to find an expert on hydrolastic suspension for a 1969 Mark 2 Mini Cooper S. My problem is that my husband was restoring the car and was unfortunately killed in an accident so I became the proud owner of the rolling chassis and body complete with wiring loom and a heck of a lot of bits...yes that was it!
Over several years I have managed to get it almost complete with the help of a lot of wonderful people. However the suspension keeps going down. I have been told this is a common problem which can be difficult to fix. One option given is to change the suspension I really do not want to do this as he wanted it as original as possible. I cannot find anyone to work out how to test them to find out where the leak is.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Kath

You need to pump it up then look where it's leaking.
90% of the time it's from the hose where crimped onto the hydro bag. Can be fixed by replacing the hose.
Original Dunlop pattern hose is no longer available, I have used Pirtek MPH06 hose with 2x Oetiker single ear clamps each end. With the original flare nut and fitting.

Pirtek do not have tooling to crimp hose onto the barb fitting in top of the bag.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Kath - where are you located? Perhaps put your location in your profile so it appears with each post (see drmini shows Baulkam Hills). That way others can make local suggestions for help. You do this via the User Control Panel (top right).

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

If the bags are ok then look at the pipe connections. Pipes and fittings can rust and if over tightened the seat can also crack.Hydraulic fluid can run down the pipe and drip in a different position as well.

Doc - are these the Oetiker clamps you use?

https://www.autopartswholesalers.com.au ... ear-clamps

Any reason for using single ear and not two ear?

https://www.autopartswholesalers.com.au ... ear-clamps

Finally, are you saying you leave the original barb fitting in the displacer (assuming its serviceable) and attach the new hose to that with two clamps? If the hose damage is right at the displacer end I assume the original hose could be trimmed and used?

For those watching this is a link to the Oetiker clamp catalogue.

http://www.autopartswholesalers.com.au/ ... alogue.pdf

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

It can be tricky finding a leak as there are many likely spots, some already mentioned. But they can all be fixed when you know where it is.
Does the drop in suspension happen to one side only?
How quickly does it drop: instantly, overnight, over a few days or more?

It doesn't take much of a leak to show up as a visible drop in ride height when you look at the car and the fluid may just track along the hose or pipe and not drip on the floor, like an oil leak. The suspension fluid tends to evaporate quickly (over a few days) without an obvious puddle or stain. So it will require someone who knows what they are dealing with to sort it out.

I am prejudiced towards keeping the car original, but it is worth keeping the hydro system if you can - for sentimental reasons, comfort and for resale value.
Good luck.

@winabbey
Yes the single ear. Provide full circle wrap. Twin ear ones are good for low pressure only they pinch the rubber.
Single ear ones don't leak at 300psi on a hydro barb. Unlike some brass crimps done by Pirtek for me.
I made a 90deg crimper for bag end but they are available if you search.

Typical Oetiker crimps kit, single ear:
https://twineagleimports.com.au/product ... assortment

Use a crimp size which just fits the hose.

Yes I trim the old crimp and pull the hose off. Both ends of hose.

I have done a couple with original hose shortened but it's in pretty poor condition after 50+ years. New hose is safer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.