What is the recommendation for electronic ignition these days - electronic conversion kit or something else? Currently running a 45D points ignition with no vacuum advance on a mild 1275. Does the coil need to be changed as well? I'm not looking to chase the last available HP, just something that works and is reliable.

Which coil you run depends on the system. Most of the conversion types should be run with the original (3 ohm) coil.

If you want reliable then it's not going to be one that fits inside the distributor.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

That is not my experience. None of my three have let me down.

I know that there are many people who have been using them without issue. There are also many who have had failures. There are a few design issues with those conversion modules which make them far less reliable than a proper system.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Some electronic devices 'fry' if left on for too long. Annoying if you are a one person operator and not helpful when usually the best way to diagnose is replace with a known good working unit. It is important to match the coil with the type of dizzy.
I would suggest chatting to Lindsay Siebler who was sourcing a Very good setup ( Peak Ignitions.
To throw lots of options at you - ...

Original and Lucas type points system,, Distributor Dr in UK (expensive but will set springs/curve to suit your setup.
Electronic but Bosch type - Performance Ignitions - home of the Scorcher,
Peak Ignitions as above and
if you check that the curve is actually as stated Aldon

I had great results with Lindsay's peak ignition. It comes with a 0.5 ohm coil. Fat sparks..

Powerspark modules from UK now have protection from being left on, also they suit coils from 1.4 ohm to 3 ohm. I have fitted a couple now using NGK 1.5 ohm coils. Going great.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

CSI for me, it has been faultless.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Chuck a Pertronix Module into your existing dizzy.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

If your points are working and reliable, then why change? Just keep a spare set of points, condenser and feeler gauge with you just in case there’s ever a problem

It’s worth noting that you need to have the whole system in good order to get optimal performance:
Ignition leads with under 5k ohm resistance
Spark plug gaps correct (25 thou for points)
Spark plug heat range is correct
Contacts on cap and rotor are clean
Timing curve appropriate for your engine

For a road car vac advance always makes sense as you’ll get extra timing at part throttle, which improves performance and fuel efficiency

My experience with electronic ignition is an Accuspark drop in module on a 25D. It’s been working fine since 2016 and keeps on going. It will use the existing advance curve in the distributor, so as long as that’s appropriate for your engine spec it’s a decent option

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I still think electronic ignition is pointless


A sign of a good dad joke is that it is repeated over and over and over

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Another option would be a 65d and with a 1.5 ohm coil to reduce the current on the module. you can use a 0.8 ohm coil but some have found the modules fail after a time.
The cheap points replacement modules are prone to failure and a waste of time and money.
Points are still a good option though.

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Cheers Dave.

Can you retrofit an A+ 65D to an early A series?

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Tim,
I did it once with an A+ peak ignition dizzy, it was the last dizzy that Lindsay had left a year or so ago. I made a big C clamp.
I will mms you a pic, I can't remember how to post them here.
Upload it if you like.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Here’s the photo from Drmini. The drive dog gear has also been swapped for an A series type

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It's probably overkill, cut in half would still work.

Edit
If doing another I would make a finger clamp from steel flat bar.
Cut a step 1mm less than the dizzy's flange thickness.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.