I ordered a red tail / brake led lamp, so I'll see how it compares to the incandescent lamp..

Each circuit should produce different light intensity, but the provided specs - particularly around lumen ratings -dont appear to be accurate.

Hoping its not made from chinesium and as the Doc suggested, best suited to weighing down the bin liner

Fitted some of the LED globes, and thought I'd give a quick update..

Parkers / front indicators. One side fitted well, the other side the globe was loose and seemed to lose electrical connection. I suspect the original filament globe tapered slightly towards the glass bulb, enough for it to fit snug. I cut a grommet in half and used that to hold the globe firm in the socket. Light wise - parker is a bit whiter and brighter than expected but it definitely improves visibility on the road. Overall pretty happy with them.

Rear indicators. These seem to fit well .. but the wiring of the dash indicator lights, meant that I'm now getting sympathy flashing. After much head scratching, I'm planning on rewiring the dash indicator lights so they take power from the light/load circuit from the flasher and use a dedicated ground circuit. From factory, these are wired to ground on the opposite side - which with incandescents they work fine but LEDs draw such little current that both sides light up.

Brake / tail lights. The ones I bought from Ali weren't brake / tail .. despite being red / red LEDs. Ended up getting some Narva LED globes. These work quite well - brighter than incandescents. https://www.repco.com.au/globes-batteri ... p/A5641359

Also fitted 36mm festoon interior light. Its proper bright.. the whole car is lit. Yet to use the car at night, but I think it will be good.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005760933473.html

Hey Barkfast May I ask how much Repco charged for the "Brake / tail lights. Ended up getting some Narva LED globes. These work quite well - brighter than incandescents. https://www.repco.com.au/globes-batteri ... p/A5641359"

Is there a delay when tail lights are on & foot brake is released?

StevestonMotorCo in Canada do a LED kits which they demonstrate on youtube:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwgsz_K7-mc

https://stevestonmotorco.com/collections/lighting

Cheers,
Si...

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Clubman GT April 1972 - YG2S8 - 1140

Paid the list price less NMRA discount - so came to $34. There's no delay in the brake lights turning off with tail lights on.

To help others, I've drawn up a basic schematic of the original wiring and the amended wiring. The original wiring for the dash indicator lights, took power from the P outlet (Panel/Pilot) on the flasher and used the other side to ground. The original incandescent globes don't light up because there is not enough current. When both front and back indicators are changed to LED globes, the new globes draw such little current that both sides light up (so called sympathy flashing).

I believe only Mini Ks and Mk2 Coopers were wired this way and the diagrams/explanatory text in the workshop manual isn't particularly clear.

The fix is to ground each of the dash indicator lights and swap the light fittings around. It might be also worthwhile to wire ground to the outside connection on the fitting and have the positive feed (green/red, green/white) goto the centre. That way its ready for LED panel globes should you go down that path later on.

I also replaced the Triton HD13 flasher with a Jaycar 2 pin LED flasher. https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-2-pin-uni ... e/p/SY4016

Cooperess asked about the brake lights turning off. I was much more concerned about when they come on.
I don't know if your Mini has an hydraulic switch in the brake line or a mechanical switch above the brake pedal lever. The mechanical switch turns on the brake lights as you touch the pedal. This is important because the Mini has so much more engine braking than other cars, that it slows down well before you have pushed the pedal. The hydraulic switch takes real pressure on the pedal when it is working properly; and often (VERY OFTEN!) they don't.
Fit a mechanical switch to get the brake lights on as early as possible.
(Maybe someone could design an inertial switch to turn on the brake lights when you quickly lift off the accelerator).
Dave D

Thanks for the wiring diagram Barkfast. That is some nice insight. I did a search and found the following regarding the cross over grounding:



I ordered my bulbs and flasher from Aliepxress, all up total, including front park indicator (white/white), rear indicator (yellow), rear brake&park (red/red), LED flasher can and number plate lamps was 15 dollars

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I had to check .. but its a hydraulic switch. There was a very very slide delay (< 0.5 sec) but suspect that is a result of the switch rather than the indicators. Possibly something to consider when I replace the brake master cylinder (plastic reservoir looks like it has a very slight weep), but that wont be for sometime yet.

Lots of good info guys. My brake switch is hydraulic. May need to change it to electric. Wondering how easy that would be on 1969 Mini.

Would you provide a URL so we can all get that action?

Each bulb link is for two bulbs. The bulb links are automatically aligned to the right type (Bay15D double filament or BAY14S single)and a bulb colour. I chose white for fwd indicators, red for rear brake/park and yellow for rear indicators. You can change the colours in the link. The flasher can is "positive pin", which aligns the positive supply in Barkfast's neat drawing correctly. It's a little bit of fun for less than 15 dollars, and this is temu so experiences may vary


-Flasher Can (CF13 Positive Pin): https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs= ... e_sn=10045
-Front indicators / parkers (BAY15D White): https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs= ... e_sn=10045
-Rear stop / tail light (BAY15D Red): https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs= ... e_sn=10045
-Rear indicators (BA15S Yellow): https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs= ... e_sn=10045
-Rear numberplate (BA9S): https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs= ... e_sn=10045


Temu wanted a 40 dollar spend for free postage, so I bought a multimeter for the toolbag. https://www.temu.com/au/1pc-smart-digit ... ag0hq80sgj

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Barkfast
Half a second delay at ONLY 60km/hr is 8 metres.
This means that IF the guy behind in the truck or 4WD behind is attentive then he/she will have travelled another 8 metres before he even sees your brake lights. Add reaction time (and distance), road surface, tyre condition etc and remember.
A MINI IS 3 METRES LONG.
Dave D

True and no doubt a worthwhile upgrade.

From a quick search - the mechanical brake switch came in from 76 with the tandem brake cylinder. The pedal box is apparently different and the switch may also need the later style steering column? Either way it would be an absolute faff of a job.. so I'll delay until its needed.

I haven't done it but I reckon it would be quite straightforward. You just need a mounting point on the pedal box for the switch (see below) and something on the pedal for the switch to hit, or just the pedal itself. Then a simple wire extension from the hydraulic brake switch in the engine bay. The latter switch could be left in place and not used, or have both operating with the wiring in parallel so either switch will activate the brake lights.

https://minisport.com.au/products/mini- ... later-mini

Hopefully someone will have a pic of the setup on a later Leyland Mini you could copy.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43