MiniMad, cant see why, the Petrol companies use it .......

There is a guy in the Uk, Stu, who brews his own fuels, his best so far was about 115Octane !!

J

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It has a much lower octane rating the the original leaded 'Super' petrol.

If your motor is modified in any way, you will cause damage to it running LRP.

If it is not modified, it will be well down on ponys (and you didn't start with all that many)

It's only a mini, so spend the extra 50c a week and put the premium unleaded in it with an aditive

Minmad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

I have been using Moreys in Min for 6 Years now and have had not trouble with it. Clean burning addative and plaug are alwasy clean.

I usually use prem unleaded in Min 1380 but only runnning 9.75:1 comp ratio.

BP Ultimate in $1.05 a liter so I stick to PULP and do not put it under any undue strees to cause it to ping.

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I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

God dame and I thought I was doing the right thing I wonder if my Jap engine is Unleaded.
And I ask for Morris to be converted over, I wish I had not now

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I Know.....Just had some anally retentive police living near me who were unhappy with me changing gear in front of there place with the blow off valve at full noise. (From my earlier ricer days!!)

....and the only thing that they could ping me on was my tolulene injection setup that I was running

Now that was the was to mix your own fuels

Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

I run 95 octane premium if it's all I can get, but it pings a bit..

Gafmo, they did a survey on LRP a while back. Oil companies reckoned it's 94 or 95 RON.. Tests they got from 85 to 93 I think. so it IS crap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Anything maufactured (well at least in Australia) after 1986 must run unleaded fuel. Does your Jap import have a cat converter?

When you say you asked for Morris to be 'converted' over.....I asume you mean to run unleaded by having the valves inserted? If you are, this is a good thing It means you can run the premium unleaded and don't need to worry about the additive.

The additive is just to stop 'Valve Seat Retension', which doesn't really happen if you have the hardened seats machined into the head.

Hope this helps

Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

unleaded inserts are good to stop valve seat recession into the head. They also restore a head by getting the valves back to their original `new head' position.

What do people charge here to fit inserts? Did my 1275A+ for nix. I might go into this business... Minis only, of course!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm missing something, I'm Correct your running an Non Leaded head Dr I can be blond some times

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Just had a 12G295 head done (don't ask!!)

About $22 each insert.

I had both intake and exhaust done, head decked, chambers CC'ed, 1275 valve guides machined and inserted, and then had them K lined......total cost $484. (not including the valve guides, valves or anything.....Just machining )

Total bill........ well over $800 for a remanifactured standard head and rocker gear

Just like new...but unleaded

Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

BP Ultimate.

I worked for BP for a year after I gave my trade the flick. The boss told me that BP Ultimate is a 'safer' fuel than Shell. He said there is no crap in Ultimate, but there is in others (Shell)

Gafmo, I might have confused you- I got 2 1275s...my 1310 has no inserts, the wife's 1293A+ does.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I use the moreys to keep plugs clean and keep the jets in carb clean.

I use it in a injected Falcon and plugs are alwasy spotless after 50 000 K's and injectors never been cleaned.

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I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

When I did the A+ head, I brought in all new rimflo intake valves, Metro exhausts, springs, collets, guides and inserts from MiniSpares UK.
The inserts alone are now 5.46GBP each, which is about $70/set including freight.
Last time I got a toolmaker to CNC the head for the inserts, he shrunk them in with liquid N2.
Now I'll soon have access to a new Bridgeport mill, I'm thinking of buying a boring head... so I can insert them myself.
I know where there's a few spare 1275 heads...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

PULP from any old shitty station. and same as Doc, I use Flashlube. Got me one of the little bottles first, and got a big bottle. Great to use as a measure. 50 ml bottle does 50L. Half a little bottle a tank And I've gotta admit, the engine does seem slightly smoother, but that's it. The head has been modified for unleaded, but the flashlube is probably worth that little bit of protection

Considering I have no idea what work was done to the engine(nothing flash I expect) I'm not running all over town to the one servo with Optimax, or Ultimate. I dont race the car(give it a squirt sometimes) and until I get the right carby on there, its no use tuning the car right up to its potential.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."