Hi all,

I have some problems with my Leyland Mini 1976 about battery. I bought a new battery and used it for almost a month then I cannot start the engine. I jumped the battery with another car and can drive it well. However, once I didn't drive the car for a night. I cannot start the car again. I went to check the battery and the result is the battery failed since there was no electricity charging into the battery.

Do you guys know what cause this problem? and what I need to do next to get it back to the working condition.

Thanks for your help...

Is the charge light going out fully after you start it? or is it dim or blinking?
Sounds like it's not charging enough, since it worked OK for a month then went flat.

Get somebody to put a voltmeter on the battery terminals while it's running. It should read around 14.3V when charging.
If under 13.8V, either the alternator has a problem, or the fan belt may be loose.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

my batteries fine, my alternators fine, but if i dont switch off the battery (to disconnect the regulator in the front), this drains the battery.

if you find that your battery is new and your alternator is working (IGN light turns off when you rev up the engine)

then maybe theres something wrong with the regulator. i solved the problem with a battery switch i turn off everytime i get out of the car

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Thanks to drmini and 68 matic,

Respond to 68matic, I also have that switch in my car. The previous owner called it Q switch. What really happened was I left the switch on when I left my car for a week for the first battery. Then it dry out my first battery. So I decided to buy a new battery and this time I made sure that I switch off all the time. But again I can only use this new battery for a month then checked it knowing that no charging to battery while I was driving.

Respond to drmini, how much does it cost to repair the alternator or replace a new one?

Thanks

3 options- buy a S/H one, get yours reconditioned, or buy a new one.

S/H one is pot luck.

Recond is OK but you will only get 3 months warranty probably. If done properly though, should be like new. Check prices at an auto electrician.

A new one you should get 12 months warranty.
Last new one I bought was 3 years ago, I paid $200 at Mini Car Clinic..

It could be something is draining it, but if overnight it's probably just a bad diode in the alternator.

Early alternators (pre- Clubbie) `69-70 had a separate regulator on the RH inner guard. These are not the most reliable Lucas product. If buying any alternator I strongly recommend getting the later type with built-in regulator.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You have to love the Alternator and Batery connection and the fun they give us.

Take it to an Auto Electrition and get them to check it and Ill be the Alt neads a recon. While you are thier get them to check if you have and Negeagtive earth problem. It has nothing to do with the Alt (?) but it may be a problem later. The reason why I mention this is due the reason of the Q Switch

Greetings to the group and hope you have fun in here and learn as we have except the Dr who helps us all

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

what colour is your mini "new to mini"
is it mustard yellow with white roof? i saw one this arvo on Parramatta road

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Thanks everyone for your advice.

repond to 68matic, my mini's colour is devil yellow all around.

Sounds like the alternator to me. As the doc said replace it with a later type, built in regulator and go the upgrade to at least the 35amp one. Make sure you remove the external regulator from the circuit. Last one i bought was about $120 recoed. otherwise try the 75amp alternator trick that has been suggested on here before. i am sure some one will put a link in here for you.

Cheers
Aaron

If you have one of the early ones, you can leave the old regulator there, and in circuit if you want. It won't do anything. Just make sure to insulate the field wire that ran to the alternator and won't be used. Green/black? I think.
Or, just pull the multi-pin connector off the old regulator...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Or you can just remove it. Makes no sense leaving it in. Sure you could leave it there, but why would you?

I eventually took mine out. Fitted the coil up there, it's a nice, dry spot..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.