I was wondering how much it would cost to do a rebuild of an engine.

Currently i have a clubman 1100, and i was wondering how much it would cost to rebuild??

Whatever you do....don't buy a motor already done from the various PIRATES in SYD (Brookvale, Padstow etc) . Go to a smaller Mini repairer that don't prey on the young and foolish.

Where in SYD are you? I am in Castle Hill and have bought a few items from Mini Spares and Repairs in Castle Hill. Check them out first.

As far as cost??.....how long is that piece of string again?? It depends on what you want done. You are probably looking at 2k for bottom end machine work and some head work.

Don't know about Padstow but avoid that northern beaches pr*ck. There's a dark alley he and I have to meet in.
Ivan and Colin are definitely worth a call. Colin's the quiet one and Ivan, gawd love 'im, will talk your ear off, but I'd still love to sit and have a beer with him. He tells some good South Africa stories.

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You're only supposed to blow WHAT off?

I've been told Colin's now moved on to greener pastures..
See Ivan, or Gareth.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yea Colin has retreated to his backyard shed to sell Sprite parts etc....But apparently Ivan knows what the deal is, so you should still get a good rebuild from there.

I had a wrecker come to my house this week, to deliver some parts for my othe rcar. He saw the Mini and started talking about the place at Brookie. He called the guy 'The Silver Haired Pirate' and said that he has been bashed and had his house trashed by disgruntled customers......

That's going a bit too far, but I know so many people that have been ripped off by him.

rumour has it, there in court....again.

I was quoted very generally for a 998 rebuild @ $1500. This is a complete rebuild; honing and all that crap, pistons, cleaned out and replaced everything.

A mate just did his 1100 and gearbox.

$2300 for all the bits and the machining...All the putting back together done at home. You would not be able to do it properly for under this. Probably double to have someone else do it.

Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!

Dr mini answered a similar question before and I should prob start a new thread, but here goes - I was thinking of rebuilding the box on the second car (1275 with a rod change and painfuly worn synchros). I want the Cooper S ratios or something close to make better use of the mildly worked engine 12G940 head, twin SUs bla bla till the Cooper S project is complete.

What I was thinking was to get the two cogs needed to convert a normal rod change gearset to cooper S ratios from the UK and get a good condition box in Australia. This way I save on buying a whole gearset, on shipping and can build a box while still usung the other one and then swap.

Will this work - anything else I should consider etc?

All you need is a Clubbie box- early rod change (not A+), a 22G1040 cluster gear, and 22G1371 1st motion shaft. And the usual wear parts- layshaft, synchro, bearings etc.
You can buy most of this stuff here, from Karcraft.

BTW there is not a lot of difference between MK2 S ratios and a std rod change- 1st, 2nd & 3rd are all geared about 1/28th higher, that's it.. even the diff is the same ratio, 3.44:1.
It's not like a 3 synchro box where gear ratios were vastly different.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah I talked to Ivan the other day about my CVs, he sounds like a fair dinkum bloke. If I was looking to rebuild I'd look at Ivan or the Mini Classic guys. Ivan sounds more aproachable though... Tell it like it is type of chap

mmm S ratio remote change *drool*

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yea I spoke to Ivan today and that younger pommy sounding guy. The're good guys at Castle Hill, even though they're a bit pricey. Too bad they lost Collin.

DrMini I really feel I'm lacking in second gear - part of it is the worn box and part is the pretty long cam - but low range is so much worst than cruising. Anything else I should or could do? Like higher ratio differential?

Also how bad\good are staraight cut gears? Everybody seems to use them in the UK but I'd imagine them to be very noisy and a pain to use for everyday driving?

Yeah, my mate Gareth is a Pom... don't hold it against him!

1st-2nd gear gap will be the same with S ratios, just the gearing is a bit shorter as I said. 2nd gear in a MK1 S was a ripper, 60+ MPH with a good motor, but you won't get this in a MK2 box. OTOH, the gear spread is pretty good, I feel. Gap 3rd-4th in an S box is 1/28th less than the others. Nice on the track..

You could fit a taller diff, overdrive drop gear set (noisy) or straight cut gearset in the box (again, noisy). Or go get some BIG wheels...
Problem with the straight cut set is, 1st gear is so much taller. Most people that fit them drop the diff ratio from 3.44 to 3.765, or 3.9 for track work.
Straight cuts are a bit noisy on the road, but some people do like the noise...

What cam spec are you running?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

30/70 Cam

So from what you're saying an MK1 3 synchro 'S' arrangement should be better than MK2? Will it loose much in the higher range?

MK1 S ratios were better than MK2 but 1st/2nd gear not as strong. And bits are now hard to get...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.