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 Post subject: bleedin brakes
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 5:44 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: sunbury victoria
hey guys

need to know how to bleed my brakes before i take meeni for its first run! the pedal is going to the floor and theres no pressure not even if u pump the brakes!!! :?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 5:54 pm 
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I DWIVE A BIG TWUCK
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fill with break fluid pump 5 times release nut on top of master cylinder repeat till no air bubble next fill tank do right front same pump (btw hold the peddle to the floor when cracking the nut) then hold floor release nut repeat till no air bubbles fill tank do left front then right rear then left rear
you may have to stamp on the peddle (i was told by a ex bmc leyland employee) to get the fluid to go through to the back you maty want to adjust the pads as well on the backing plate there are 2 square nuts turn in the same direction as the wheel turns till the pad bites
makka

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 5:58 pm 
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1275cc
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kool

but do u mean the top master cylinder or the ones on the wheels?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 6:01 pm 
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master cylinder bro it is the only one with a hole to do it ;)
makka

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 6:01 pm 
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I DWIVE A BIG TWUCK
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if ya need more help just ring me 0412 938 072

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:46 pm 
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teh admin God
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Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2004 12:25 pm
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Location: Smitho, Tassie
okkher
i reda my mini manual
but thats crap
and i forget where stuff is
so my questions will be plainly stupid, BUT not to me :wink: :lol:

does the entire mini need to be of the ground to bleed the brakes?
and so i dont understand what book or makka said there

and also dual or single somthing system?
i told they are different, but the book didnt give any identification tips :?:
so what do i do?

good

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 1:16 am 
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998cc
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the car doesnt have to be off the ground at all to bleed the brakes. Bleeding the brakes is to remove air from the brake fluid in the brakes. The only reason you might want to get the car off the ground is to get under the car to bleed the brake nozzle at each wheel. Putting the car over a pit is the easiest way to bleed the brakes, and you'll need someone to help as its a bit difficult to put your foot on the brake to squish the fluid through the system, while you also open, bleed, then close each nozzle on each wheel.

I think you're supposed to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first, but could be closest, not sure about that.

Mine getting bled tomorrow, thankfully I have a friend with a pit who also knows how to bleed brakes :)

If you have the car up on jacks/stands, makes it real easy to adjust your drum brakes though, as they do need to be off the ground for that. Do the brake adjusters up so the wheel cant rotate, then back them off just enough to let the wheel rotate freely. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:55 am 
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yeah im pretty fu*ked on this topic too ayy. i may have to give you a ring too makka :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 10:39 am 
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Jack it up, it's 10 times easier, esp on lowered roundnoses :wink:

You need 2 people to do it right, one stepping on the brake, one to turn the bleed screw. If you are new to bleeding brakes, I'd jack up the car and take the wheels off, easier access so you can see what you're doing... not much room back there.

Buy yourself some clear rubber hosing to connect to the bleed screw, make sure it's a tight fit so that no air can get in via the connection between the hose and the bleed screw. dip the other end into a jar with new brake fluid and make sure the end is submerged in the fuild.

Then only can you bleed the brakes properly...

On the down pedal, open the screw up, when the pedal is floored close the screw. Repeat until no air comes through and the fluid is clear.

If you plan to bleed the whole car, you might need to buy 2 bottles of brake fluid. Buy good stuff, DOT4

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 10:41 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
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Location: Brisbane
Bleed back wheels first.

If you do the front wheels the balance valve will accuate (spelling) and you'll never be able to bleed the rears properly.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 5:42 pm 
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Get the right size ring spanner to undo the bleeder.

A shifter will round the corners on the bleeder and you will not be able to undo them next time.

They may be metric if the cylinder has been changed. :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 6:10 pm 
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getting new drums put on on friday, and probably get the system bled as well, the guy is good. cos i cold put my foot thru the floor if i tried to stop too quick!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:41 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Get the right size ring spanner to undo the bleeder.

A shifter will round the corners on the bleeder and you will not be able to undo them next time.

They may be metric if the cylinder has been changed. :P

I use a socket to loosen 'em first.. then a 4" shifter to open/close... :lol:

Don't do them up too tight... they don't need it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:03 pm 
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http://www.niksula.cs.hut.fi/~mdobruck/ ... b-tips.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:15 pm 
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teh admin God
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hmm

this is rubbish i cant do anything :( ''

:lol:
do i realy start at the rear

the book says start at driver front then go to the left front, and bugger it :?
whats dual circuit system or single? it seems they need different methods but how can i tell?

good
and for each whell i put a new cup of fluid for each wheel? so tip out fluid after each wheel and find some more for the other wheels, hmm/ :idea: :arrow:

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