Got up this morning and started... decided to change the condensor as it was the last thing I hadn't replaced on the spark side of things. Now the car wont start .

I've double checked the points, they are opening and closing ok when I spin the fan (gap is se to 0.15 (manual says bween 0.14 and 0.16). I'm about to pull my hair out now

Things replaced so far:

points (new this week)
leads (off the other car and tested with a multimater)
cap (new this week)
rotor (off other car)
condensor (new today)
plugs (new 2 days ago - not fouled (yet))

Things tuned so far
points
timing
carb (roughly when it was running)

My moke hates me!

Shard

Check the condenser again to make sure it is correctly fitted....try to start...next put the old condensor back in....try to start....

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"Show me the Mini!"

Tried the old one back in, still no go. It's connected same way it was before I pulled it out.

Shard

Does the starter it turn over or just clicks??

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Turning over fine.

I know the points are "new" but they are a very common source of trouble...check them again...are they black instead of shiney??

You should always give new points a wipe with a solvent before using them....the other thing is...if your feeler guages are dripping in oil you can smear a film on the faces of the points....so

If they are correctly installed according to the manual they won't be shorting out ....12V across em when open????

Have you checked that you have spark to each plug by removing one at a time, putting it back in its lead, then earthing it to the block and turning the engine over??? repeat for each plug....

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"Show me the Mini!"

oiesgjoiewjgoewjgoiewgj.

I went and checked the points again, they were clean but I noticed the red bit wasn't springy (ie. it wasn't returning to a closed state).

For some reason the springy mechanism is rooted on them, I put in an older set that still worked and its running again. Spin around the block was fine but the mixtures still not happy, had a bit of backfiring coming down and the engine cut outl when I turned into my driveway.

At least it's running now. Honestly how many other stupid things does it want to throw at me :/.

Millions

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"Show me the Mini!"

Don't you love it when a glorified paper clip can cause so much frustration

Been there, done that - the joys of the A series electrics

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Orright just got back and they reckon it's the fuel pump, it's failing under load. The guy hooked up some pressure meter thing to it and said it was a few short (needed 3'ish, I had one point something from memory).

He said repco sell electric fuel pumps for ~$70 and that all i'd need to do would be to bypass the mechanical one with the lines and hook up the pump so it was getting 12v on ignition. Now that *sounds* easy enough, but before I do anything, what am I getting myself into here?

About to do an ausmini search for fuel pump and see what it brings up. Guy said I should stop over repco on the way home (store is 10 min bike ride from me) but I thought i'd check with you guys and do some reading up on it before committing to anything.

As usual, any help appreciated.

Shard

is this for the clubby or the moke ???
either way it is easy mount the pump close to the tank
then run a power wire to the fuse box on one side you only get power with ignition on and thats were you hook the power up get a bit of fuel line to bypass the old pump and off ya go
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

For the moke, the clubbie (since named jaffa) hasn't had any time to be worked on much seeing as mokey started playing up a few days after I got Jaffa.

Ok so if I'm understanding right I can buy any yumcha pump and whack it in the mokes little side compartment infront of the tank and it's just a matter of running a power lead to the fusebox (ign side) and then reconnecting the fuel lines to the new pump so they bypass the old one?

Just from what i've read now, apparently noise is an issue, my moke has **** insulation so is a supercheap/repco generic electric pump going to make my car even more loud?

Shard

You can mount the electric fuel pump on a exhaust mount rubber thing to shut it up but I can't hear mine over the motor so it doesn't matter much anyway.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Rear subframe isn't really practical, mokes fuel tank is roughly in the middle passenger side.

I'm just thinking out loud here, there's a fuel filter (plastic white thing hooked up between the pump and the carby). I've read that it should be hooked up between the tank and the pump, but i'm guessing that's just an easy switcheroo.

Filter must be a few years old too, it's sealed so I cant empty it out. The guy did a pressure test I'm guessing which must have come from the pump itself bypassing the filter? By this I can rule out filter blockage stalling it under load? (probably wont hurt to change it over anyway and reattaching the new one between an elec pump and the tank).

So I think tommorows gunna be a bike ride down to supercheap/repco to see what they have in the way of elec pumps and go from there. I've also read that elec pumps output 9psi which is way to much and will force the needle open?? Are elec pumps rated for 3psi or is there a fix around this or is it something I shouldn't worry about?

Sorry for twenty questions, it's been a frustrating week miniwise for me.

edit: just had another thought, because the filter is attached to the carby if it is clogged, could it be starving it under load?? (again the test the guy did on the pump overrides filter problem again, but i'd hate to go out and buy an elec pump and then find out later the mech one is working ok... stuff like that's happened too mayn times in my four and a half years with mokey.

Try and get a pump that is rated close to 3psi. I had an electric one and found out it was rated at 15psi, which was why It was running a little bit rich. (forced too much fuel into the fuel bowls.)

Look into some sort of safety switch too. One idea is to have the pump cut off when there is no oil pressure (ie, motor off) such as in a crash. Don't want to keep pumping fuel out onto a hot motor (and exhaust manifold) if you've had an accident.

The other idea is to get a device that will shut the pump off in a crash (cos sometimes the motor will keep going!!). Can't remeber what they were called, I've got to get something like this too, so I hope someone else remembers!!

Good Luck

Matt