As far as the solex locks go, they are ok, but i had a set on my last car (VL commodore), thinking that that would deter thieves. I was wrong. The bastards just poked a hole in the door skin next to the lock and popped it out. If they want to get in, they will.

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Roll Out

I've got a black widow alarm in my car. Was a bit too sensitive at 1st (would go off when not required) but once I got it finetuned is a great thing. Multipoint immobilisation, hooks up to the central locking, shock sensor, door, boot, and bonnet sensor, automatically arms the immobilisor after 30 secs (great when filling up with gas) etc etc. Has battery backup within the unit if someone cuts the power the alarm goes off, automatically changes the code sent from the remote to unlock it every time, etc. Cost me $350 fitted and theres no way to get past it without setting it off. The shock sensor will detect anyone breaking windows, kicking panels or stealing wheels too. A great little investment imo.

Was planning to shave the door locks off my car, weld in metal and paint over it for extra security, especially since if I unlocked and opened the door the alarm would go off anyway...

I my self have an 850 sedan. I have retro-fitted a Jaycar alarm into my 64 eh,, including the remote door lock feature. It can be done to the 850, but the problem is that the lock for the 850 is in the handle and means that if your central locking gets the shits, you will not be able to open the door. You can't turn the key to unlock the door and bypass the central locking (rrom what I can figure out) You can buy alarms that use volatage sensing to trigger the alarm off. either -ve or +ve sensing. If you are cleaver you can put switches under your seat, or under the bonnet or whatever you want. You can make it so that if the alarm is bypassed once set the fuel pump cuts out and can't be restarted.

Good to see someone who uses GOOD access control systems

I built a RFID system myself, 4 levels of access, Maintenance (opens full function of the car between 8:30 and 5:00 with only a key (activates for 3 days, then needs re-activating))

Pissed Drunk (I can use the radio, (soon to be neons) etc... without being able to start the car)

Relative ( Can drive the car, and thats it, no radio, neons etc.. (soon to be rev limiter at 3500))

and Me (Same as maintenance, but whenever i am near it..)

Works really well. I still have to finish building some (most) of the control circuits, but the primary is in there.

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If only milk and orange juice is meant to come in 2 litres, only cheap wine comes in 5 litres...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13922833@N04/

Im a locksmith and have found the best lock to use on all mini's that used the seperate barrel (one not in the handle) it is used on kf lasers and mazda 121 bubble cars they have the same keyshape as the long ignition keys so they can be keyed alike, these door locks have 8 tumblers in side were the mini has 5 soo they are harder to break into you just need to file the hole to suit the new lock

give solex locks six months and they jam up they have no dust cover on the front and if the wrong type of people get there hands on certain tools, can open these in seconds

if anyone needs a hand trying this conversion 'pm' and i can help them out 'ive already done three mini's

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

speaking of security issue for a Mini that reminds me I need a boot lock are these easy enough to find?? also would it be worth my while possibly getting the barrel fixed and a key made to fit?? whats the pro's n con's or should i bite the bullet and buy a new lock completly?

RFID ? from wat i just read bout them they sound quit kewl

T handles on the boot can be pulled apart and serviced once the barrell is taken out there is actually a code on the side (three digit) sometimes this code is also stamped on the spindle just give it a buff on a wire wheel
The keys can then be cut from the code

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

Excellent info to know.....the solex issue in relation to minis is still a little of a mystery to me. As for the Laser and 121 barrels....where do you source them? Do you get them "new" or simply as a wreckers item?

I need to do my locks as I'm not happy with the Clubman locks, even with rebuilds, new clips and grommets.

PTR_1275: I'm really interested in RFID technology, could you possibly provide more info?
Where to get the info? Where to get the equipment?

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1975 Leyland Clubman 'S'
1976 Leyland Clubman 'S' *work in progress*
I smile everytime!

likewise..

For the doors locks Ive got the product codes from "Nice" most wreckers can order these but you will need a locksmith to rekey them to your mini ignition key. you can source them from a wrecked car but these can be a bit worn out

NDL22A for a black face cap (face cap is the bit you can see from out side)
NDL22J for stanless steel face cap

Your right with mini door barrells they would have to be one of the worst designs ive seen (And ive worked on nearly every model car in australia)

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

Cool. I'll chase that up. I move into my new home this week so will get the chance to work on my mini for the first time in a long while.

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72 Clubman and a 75 Van.

I brought in some new Mk2 tumblers and keys from UK, any idea if these will fit the Oz Mini K/Deluxe/S doorlocks?
I can't see how to get the old ones out of the handle....
No I'm not a locksmith, just a humble fitter/machinist!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i saw an immobilizer that you had to touch a certain screw on the dash (under dash) as you turned the key or it wouldnt start. It created a circuit or some jazz when you did it.

Thought it was cool at the time...I wonder what would happen if you got rained on
david