on the mini minor, after my Dad and brother had replaced all the hydraulic bits on the clutch, i still could not get it into gear. i pulled all the clevis pins and renewed them, instant fix.

there was about 2mm wear on the pedal to piston pin and about 1mm wear on the slave piston rod to clutch arm, and 1mm wear on the clutch arm pin.

i did not check for wear on the ball end of the clutch arm or the socket of the thrust bearing carrier. they would have been my last ditch effort.

read the story on marcel chichak's web page about the difference it makes
http://members.tripod.com/%7Emini_digest/clutch.htm

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

very very interesting! Thanx Mick! 'twas a good read!

the sooner JAM is on the road, the better the world will be

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

yes yes....the road needs JAM

....but what will I talk about when I finish my resto?? I will have nothing to say

i can hear you now Anton

"this one time.....at JAM camp......."

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

removed clutch master cylinder and the gasket below it. The gasket measured .100" in thickness (2.5mm).....

I refitted and rebled the clutch. It feels much heavier now, but it's too late to drive and see if it made a difference.

**fingers crossed**

THAT is a bloody thick gasket Anton.. originals are pretty thin!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is always the weekly, monthly and annual maintenance procedures to be documented yet. There's another 12 months worth at least for you Anton

Yeah and you have to tell us when your first
scratch
dent
crash
fine
defect
root
close call
happens in JAM.

there was a paper gasket and a tin 'spacer' the same shape as the gasket. I dunno....I just wacked it in there as I was sure that's how it came out 3 years ago. Anyway....all gone now.

Just for everyone else's own benifit.....Greg at Karcraft has confirmed that these master cylinders are fitted correctly.

Thanks Greg

Have you got the brakes sorted now JAM?
Im thinking I might replace my master cylinder, is this plastic replacement the only/recommended way to go?

Or should I stick to the steel replacement cylinder that hopefully my local brake supplier will get for me?

Ive had the brakes bled twice, totally flushed and bled the second time, still feel a little spongy. Id guess a kit was put through the cylinder when my brakes got the Metro upgrade, but Im thinking a new cylinder should have been the way I went.

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78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

My brakes are getting better the more I drive....all new gear...probably still bedding in.

Apparently the rears are VERY hard to bleed....you need to do them over and over again! A little bit of air in there gives poor pedal feel.

You can buy NEW metal master cylinders, but they cost more than new plastic ones, because the manufacturer makes much less of them.

They all do the same job though.

Rekitting an old one is fine, as long as it's in reasonable condition...otherwise buy NEW Mine were about $100 each.

Would you recommend me ditching the tin cans in favour of plastic power?
The cans look good, but am unsure if they are still the best.