Genuine MK2 S motor is worth $$$, I'd go find an 1100S one instead. They are just as good for modifying. The later ones with the big journal cranks are best. They bolt straight onto an S box (I run one set up this way).

If you find a Mini-K box and want S ratios, just change the 1st motion shaft and cluster gears to S ones, and you got it!

<edit> and if you want even more cubes you can stroke this crank and then use S rods..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sorry doc, if I was happy with a worked 1100, I'd be uprating the existing motor. Nah, got my liitle heart set on starting at 1275+.040 and work up from there. Bottom line will always be what is available and for how much. We'll wait and see what the Scrounger comes up with. So your saying if he comes back with genuine but shagged Cooper S Mk2 engine/box for 50 bucks and a bottle of Jack I should take it LOL

I like the MiniK box with S ratios plan, that sounds cost effective. Thanks for all the help.
Dat

1100 S's are 1275's whodat.
i know its stupid but yer, come out of the morris 1100 S which isnt a mini but still has the mini 1275 engine.

confusing huh

Yeah the 1100S was a Morris 1100 body with the 1275, pretty much same motor as a Mini 1275LS.
When the Morris 1500 came out they renamed the `1100S auto' as a `1300 auto'. Confusing...

The 1275 auto blocks are a bit different in the oilways, and need mods to work on a manual box. But if you find one cheap, I can mod it for you.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok big re-think?? Confused - yes. Thanks for the heads up Mike. I'm the first to put my hand up and admit ignorance on these things. That's why I'm asking in the first place.

So now I'm looking for the motor from a Morris 1100 S [as in car model number not dispacement capacity] - yes? drop a MiniK remote box under it with the Cooper S gears inside it. And this setup will take all the other mods suggested above as it is the same block used for the Mini. Have I got that right?

Now if this is right, it is going to be a lot easier to find stuff if I don't have to use the inflationary "Cooper" tag

Put it this way. I don't care what it is called, it's heritage or if it is "genuine" [appologies to the purists] as long as it is a 1275 block, and all the good Cooper/performance bits will fit it. Hey I'm going to have a really hard time convincing ppls that my pannel van is a "genuine Cooper S" so why bother even pretending - as long as it performs like one I'll be happy.
Cheers Dat

You got it right.
Common 1275 blocks are easier to find than S ones, they are stiffer and bore out to bigger sizes better.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Common 1275 blocks - as in from the Morrie1100 or out of a mini?

Ok give a choice, with all the above taken into consideration, do I go for a common 1275 block, the manual S version or the auto S version [then modded for manual] to get the better outcome.

1275 block out of a Morris 1100S is the same as that in a Mini 1275LS.

Auto block is same again but missing a couple of arteries.

1275S block was only used on S (was the first 1275s) they are dear because people want them for their `genuine' Cooper S's...

A block is a block- they will all bore to 1380.

I'd get a manual 1100S block if you can find one, or modify an auto one.
Auto blocks are cheap because nobody wants them.

For details of the mods needed to an auto block, see http://www.austinamericausa.com/ and look under "Technical advice- engine/trans/clutch".

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Think I got it now Doc thanks for all your time.

manual morrie 1100S block = easier
Auto morrie 110S block = plentiful & cheaper but a bit of mods needed
genuine mini 1275S block = rare and expensive

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Definitely cheaper going 1100S, i've got one myself getting the 1380 treatment as we speak....

As you pull these motors apart, alot of unexpected goodies pop up.... (well, they did for me.....) It cost me a whole $400. Definitely not complaining

The 1100S motor has the 12YD/Ta/H prefix, a 12G940 head ,and 8.4 to 1 compression. The gearbox is crap, i'm replacing it with either an 1128 or 846 'remote change' box fitted with a 'rod change' diff.

I'm almost temped to go shopping for wrecked Morrie 1100S's, as the motors would sell very quickly..

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

I think you left your run a bit late- 1100S cars are as plentiful as S/H S brakes now..

If you se a 1275 motor cheap buy it- even if just a block, crank & head..

<edit> but make sure the block has its main bearing caps... it's useless without them, buying and fittling new steel caps would cost you mega$$

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So what's a reasonable price to pay for 1275 full with gearbox? as is, in unkown condition?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Cheapest way is get a block, crank, head, rods and gearbox cheap, get it reconditioned.
Then you KNOW what you've got.

ping kazjim if you are interested in going this route- he still has some 1275 stuff left, after I bought some toooooo...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Check the Miniowners of QLD web site. There was a morris 1100s (1275 motor and rod change mini gearbox) for sale with a spare auto 1275 block plus 3 other engines. The one in the car was reco about 5 yrs ago.
It was still for sale on thursday for $600, But it didn't suit my needs

Minimad

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You can take the boy out of the racer.........but not the racer out of the boy!