So Run it by me again doc? you were too quick on the phone...

To disconnect the selector rod i put it into reverse? Then you said I need a punch of some kind? is that for the roller needle thing that holds the selector rod to the selector? Then i can either pry out the old seals or just add more into them and punch them in with something. Can i just use like a deep impact socket that will fit the diameter instead of the service tool? i mean all it needs is to fit around the selector right?

Check out these parts from http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/frame_mini_minor.htm :




Should I look for something like this as a replacement? I want to remove all the old seals and replace it with this thing and pt additional seals in there... it's leaking about 20 drops a day!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

To get the roll pin out, put it into reverse gear, then drive the front? roll pin out with a 3/16" pin punch and BFH. Use a proper punch- the pins are often tight.
You can fit that kit in the pic, once you pry out the old seal. Most people just whack another seal in on top of the old one so there's 2 (or 3!) seals in there. Usually works..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Waah? dun get it... put into reverse, then get the pins out. Will the selector rod (one that goes all the way to the gear stick) be out of the way enough to to get to the seals?

I don't get how to remove the seals while the selector shaft is still in the gearbox end??? sorry totally newbie here

Like the selector itself that is inside the gearbox, the seals are around it right? if there are 2-3 seals in there, how do i pry out all 3? esp if the first seal is deep inside the gearbox towards the front of the car end? OK the seals may only be a few mm thick but do I just use a screw driver and pry them out by force?

Thanks Big Kev! You're a Legend!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Once you knock the pin out, the shift rod sleeve will slide back off the selector rod. Then you `might' be able to pry the seal out. But if it's not up on a hoist, I doubt it. Just knock a new seal in with a piece of pipe or a deep socket and a hammer, until flush, then refit the shift rod and pin.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Chong, I will make you feel less of a noobie with this question.....

Where is this seal located? I always hear about replacing it, but I haven't got to the mechanicals of my Mini yet, so I dunno where it is....

LOL i feel better now Jam!

It's under the car, when you look under there right below the gear lever is the rod change mechanism. There are 2 rods that go from that to the engine, the top one is a steady bar, the the bottom one is the selector. Where the selector goes into the engine you will see a whole pile of oil, dirt and crap, and most likely fresh dripping oil. That's the where the seal goes, around the selector shaft, inside of the gearbox housing.

I'll have a good look again this weekend. I raised the mini onto 4 tall jack stands so there is a fair amount of room under there...

Maybe a new seal over the other ones will do the trick!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Oh by the way JAM, it's easy to learn! I know bugger all about mechanics! I baught the Mini Car Clinic parts catalogue ($30) and a Leyland service manual ($60) and studied the crap out of both!

The rest is from Dr Mini's head! I wish I could mind meld with the guy

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yea I have the black Leyland manual. My motor/box is sitting on a piano trolley. Has been for 2 years. I am sure it leaks from there, as there is always a fresh looking pool of oil on the trolley at that point.

I have been a claytons panelbeater/painter for a while, but thats done now, so it's time to be a claytons mechanic

Thanks for the tip.

Leyland manual is great but the parts catalogue is a MUST! best way to check out all the bits and pieces and know what is missing from where!

Second best place is here: http://www.minispares.com/MiniCooperCatalog.cfm

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

nice...thanx!

No probs, I think just about the best thing about a parts catalogue is knowing what to call each part that you're trying to talk about! ie. Lower clutch actuator clevis pin, clutch arm return spring plate, tie rod end gaiter

Makes you sound cool LOL

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I'm sure that someone locally in the mini club here here, reckons that the housing can accept up to 7 of those seals . I dunno.

Mine is leaking oil from there too, and I've been told its almost impossible to get them to seal correctly. One suggestion which I believe is highly possible, is that over the years of gear changes the selector rod may be slightly bent creating pressure on the seal, causing it to leak.

I think I understand what doc is talking about in removing the roll pin to get the shaft off. But how do ya get the old seals out, if ya wanna replace them with completely new ones(instead of just chucking more in)

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

They are not a very tight fit in there. Outer one you can get with a small sharp bent screwdriver or similar. The others... drill a small hole in and screw in a big self tapper, pull with slide hammer- but it's bloody hard to get at in the car. That's why most people just shove another seal in. I've seen 3 or 4 in there- I doubt 7 would fit....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have been tolf that if you removed the sprin out of the seal and cut of a short lenght of the spring from the large en only it should make the seal tfit to the shaft tighter.

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I've Got One
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What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

Please explain... it's just a plain old oil seal...?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.