I have just fitted Cooper S front brake to my mini. They work real good going backwards but going forwards they are a bit weak. They have new pistions, seals and pads in them. I am fairly sure I have got all the air out the system as I have a good pedal but could be wrong.
As anyone struck this before or got any info that may help.
Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

Are the calipers bolted on the right way (as in... facing the front of the car, or facing the back of the car).
Is it possible to put them on the wrong way? I *think* it is.

They are set up the right way ie: Calipers on front and the bleed nipples to the top.
Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

clearly the discs are on the wrong way, swap them over to the other side and try that

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78 Leyland Mini - Prince

Have you fitted a brake booster, if not the pedal pressure will be high, the difference going backwards is that the rear brakes are stopping you and going forward its the fronts, have you changed the rear brakes cylinders for the smaller bore as fitted to the "S"

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

No to both.
Will the differnt rear wheel cylinders make much difference?
Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

Yes! your back brakes will lock up before your front brakes do, hence you are now probably braking with your rear brakes only.

Cooper S rear wheel cylinders $23 each from karcraft

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Discs need a lot more pedal pressure, which is why they are usually boosted.
Personally I prefer un-boosted, as you get more feel.
You will get used to "standing on the brakes"

And yes, the trouble with std rear cylinders is that when you put enough pressure to work the disks (boosted or not) the rears might lock up! Only other choices are:
a) back the rear brakes off a little so they don't work properly
b) fit an adjustable bias proportioning valve

I know which I'd do

Mike

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Too many cars, and too little time.

The original S setup used the smaller rear cylinders and a limiter to reduce the rear wheel lock up under heavy braking, this was done because the booster increased pressure in the system while pedal presure was reduced. Without the booster the pedal presure will be high and I hope you have changed the master cylinder for a disc brake one, to many years working on BMC product lol

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Just ask for front cylinders for an early 850 single leading shoe front, same cylinder and most places charge less for them

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

hey i am about to re do some disc brakes, do you really need a new master cylinder? i thought they were the same.... and when someone said you need alot of pedal pressure. i thought they were supposed to be better then drums!

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Potato

They are better than drums, not because the pedal feel is any better, but because they are self adjusting (when braking heavily you won't get sideways because one side grabs before the other esp in the wet) and they don't fade like drums do.

With drums you can stop well... for the first 10 mins then it fades and gets spongy. Every week or two you have to adjust them with a spanner...

Hey if you don't like S brakes, I'm more than happy to take them off your hands

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

no its ok, i will keep them!!!!!, ok so i understand now, i am going to brands hatch now, goodbye

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Potato

If you've just fitted them, maybe the pads are not bedded in yet. And choice of pad makes a lot of difference if running unboosted.
I run EBC Blackstuffs on Barney (wife's car) and Greenstuffs on mine. No servo on either.
Hers stops better in normal driving, with less pedal effort, but they fade pretty easy if you push it..
The Greenstuffs are great, when warmed up, for hard driving or on the track- but not so hot the 1st few stops.
You pays yer money and makes yer choice...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

there is a small difference between drum brake and disc brake cylinders, basically they are the same but in the drun brake cylinder there is an extra seal to stop the return of fluid back to the tank, drums rely on the springs inside the brake drum to pull the linings back when you take your foot off the brake pedal and without the return stop you would be pumping your brakes for every stop, if this function is not removed with discs it will cause the brakes to drag and can cause them to lock on. It is just one seal that has to be removed and its not only mini's that it effects, any car being changed from a drum sytem to discs ( early holden, fords anything) can suffer from this

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van