Hey Boys,
If my ball joint is moving (around 1-2mm freeplay) without grease, should I replace/install new shims in the balljoint? if I don't what can happen in the long run? It's the left top balljoint that's moving up and down...

Cheers!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

sounds like its to loose to me , have u just put in new ball joints?
try removing one iof the thin shims and packing it with hmp grease

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lookin for another clubby

When i pack it up with grease it seems ok, when it is dry it moves like a belly dancer... It's the only one that moves alot when it's dry... other seem fine.

No these are my original ball joints, nothing new put in...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

might be time to replace the top lhs joint then sounds worn out

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lookin for another clubby

I want to avoid replacing anything... looking at a full driveshaft to hub nut disk brake conversion at the end of the year so any money spent is wasted

I don't mind a shim replacement though, nicve and cheap fix

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

if it is loose it needs a shim removed
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

I thought so! the book says to replace shims, but I am thinking, how does that work if it's loose

Thanks, will look at it when i split it again

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If it's been running like that for long it's r**ted. Go buy a new one- not dear, and they come with shims and lock tabs..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ball joints should never ever be dry, if they are dry you are not maintaining your car properly.

When the joint has movement it will cause problems like tyre wear and poor handleing.

Just try taking out a small shim (if it has any left) and make sure that when you tighten up the nut the pin can move and it is not bound up tight. Make sure you do the nut up tight and that you do up the locktab as well.

Do not throw away any old shims as you may need them one day.

Always grease your ball joints evey 5000km (or even more often is better) and they will last a long time, if you let them run dry you will have to spend money and skin knuckles fixing them!

Chong get down to Smithfield and buy a pair. They are not expencive at all and the peace of mind it out of the way. Also grab yours self June addition of Mini Magazine. It has a detail explanation of the front suspention including the ball joints. If you wish I can drop it off to you tomorrow as Ill be down your way in the Arvo. Send me a PM

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

If they have been run loose for long the ball pin and socket wear oval, taking shims out won't fix it properly. If there's any shims left in there..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the offer Gaf, but I am working in the city during the day...

They are dry because I just cleaned them after regreasing the pot joints/CVs. They were always greased up as long as I have had the car, i never noticed the movement until they were dry and clean.

Thanks for advice, I will try removal of shims first, else I will buy new ball joints. $32 karcraft

Cheers!
Chongy

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Make sure you do the nut up tight! 72 Lb/ft it should be. And use the locktab. We don't want it all falling to bits at speed.. (yes it can happen. I was in the car too (not mine! )

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Gee you must have just posted that same time I did

OK i will check all 4 joints for oval wear and if not remove the (any) shims. Else buy new... and do em up tight and use the lock tabs thanks Big Kev

Boy my car will be a different car after the regreasing of the pot joints! let me see:

New pot joint boots, CV boots, bearing grease up, clutch actuator replacement, bleed, all the clutch clevis pins replaced, choke cable greaseup, new steady rubbers all round, new radiator top hose, new termostat cover, serviced carb, greased and tightenned rod change mechanism and now ball joints serviced!

Got more than I bargained for! Tune in next week for rod change oil seal replacement

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Note the bottom ones have springs in them. Take the springs out, play with the shims, then when done, undo, put the springs back in and retighten. RTFM...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.