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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 6:37 pm 
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1360cc
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What the... is going on here?!? :?

I was on a slight hill in JAM. Foot on clutch, gearbox in 1st, foot NOT on brake.

In gear, the car didn't roll forward.....take it our of gear tha car starts to roll.....same again about 5 times.
I didn't move my foot on or off the clutch, just put in gear, then out, then in, then out. Car rolls, then stops, then rolls, then stops....

What the??


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 6:44 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: SE Melbourne
Engine off I presume?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:27 pm 
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1360cc
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engine running and no crunching while I was doing the above....


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:30 pm 
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1360cc
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You're right. That is strange. You'd expect the engine to stall or hear some grinding if something isn't right. Does it drive smooth and change gears easily?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:30 pm 
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1275cc
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As i said Anton.. exactly what is happening on Slidey.

Foot on clutch fully depressed, the clutch is still slightly disengaged, hence the car not wanting to move cos it is still "caught" (for use of a better word) on the gearing.

On Slidey, when i am in reverse and i roll back, i can hear gears "clipping" as if they are not meshed or engaged correctly. It's bizarre stuff, and when i can eventually get a certain mini mechanic to come out (as i cannot move Slidey cos i can't find any gears due to clutch not working) and put my new adjustment arm kit, thrust bearing and the famous spacer washer, i hope to have the problem solved :?

I hope :(

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:46 pm 
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1360cc
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...interesting....you will have to keep me posted on the outcome.

Today I replaced the slave cylinder pushrod, and it only crunches 25% of downshifts....so I am getting there (it is getting better)

Mine never crunches into reverse.

I feel my issue is hydraulic.......even though I replaced everything NEW. :evil:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:47 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
New clutch hose too??? :wink:

Getting better = dodgy MiniSpares baulk ring is bedding in... :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 8:04 pm 
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1360cc
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it's not just 2nd though...... funnily enough it's only 1st & 2nd that is the prob....... :? could it be internal?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 8:21 pm 
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Changing down, there is much more load on the synchros in 2nd or 1st, than 3rd. It has to spin up the drop gears and clutch 3.5x approx if you go from 4th back to 1st... :shock:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:33 pm 
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1275cc
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fark feeling bad for you mate. esp since everything is new :x :x

This thing Doc keeps talking about is scaring me, i just got my box rebuilt
for elmo, and i hope thati didnt get those crappy mini sparers baulk rings :shock: :shock:

Best of luck mate :wink: gannons is still a month and a bit. im sure itwill be done in time


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:40 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Mine used to do it..

Try sitting on level ground in first with the clutch in and let your foot of the brake..see if the car wants to roll forward..

I replace the clutch master..but also did the whole gearbox and clutch..but i'm pretty sure it was the master which was a .70 instead of .75...

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:07 am 
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1275cc
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My clutch has never felt better since doing this!!

XA-XB falcon slave cylinder (about 35 bucks brand new) and a braided line straight from master to slave.

The clutch is a little heavier (But I like that), but the slave has HEAPS more travel - you never have to worry about bending clutch arms etc. It's Farkin Grouse.

Let me know if you want to get this done - I can get the braided hose made cheap. More Bling!!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 12:01 am 
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Thier is a number of us that have found this same problem...is MrBob onto womthing here with the hose by chance :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 12:42 am 
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848cc
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MrBob wrote:
My clutch has never felt better since doing this!!

XA-XB falcon slave cylinder (about 35 bucks brand new) and a braided line straight from master to slave.

The clutch is a little heavier (But I like that), but the slave has HEAPS more travel - you never have to worry about bending clutch arms etc. It's Farkin Grouse.

Let me know if you want to get this done - I can get the braided hose made cheap. More Bling!!


I have had the mechanic put a.75 back in and apparently its better but i have also heard that the slave cylinder you talk about sounds like a plan.
My question is does the braided line do anything ???

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 6:35 am 
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1275cc
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unit wrote:
My question is does the braided line do anything ???
Well before changing the slave/hose I had intermittent clutch problems. There were more joins in the hose than I really thought were necessary, and like I said, the line I thought was cheap. It's now straight out the end of the master straight into the slave (no copper at all).

The main reason for this was that the Falcon slave needed the flex line twisted around a bit, and we couldn't get it to turn on the copper line - was seized and no amount of WD and patience would get it loose without breaking it.

The extra travel in the slave also allows for more free play while still dis-engaging the clutch better than the standard one ever did. No clutch / gearbox trouble to speak of since :D **touch wood** :o

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