I had a leaking rear right slave cylinder and very little brake pedal (naturally) . I honed the slave and replaced seals and boots and wacked it back in with the only drama being getting that cursed C clip back on .
However when I went to bleed the brakes I found the first nipple (rear left) to be bone dry when cracked, I removed the brake line and found no fluid coming through. The rear right is fine.
I'm running a dual circuit master with 8.4" front Discs and stepped drums at the rear (with the correct rear slaves). I'm thinking it's a master cylinder issue (but hoping I'm wrong )
So what should be my next step?

If it was me...I would panic, disconnect the line to the offending cylinder and flush it to check it wasn't blocked....so when clean fluid came through the line I would then go into panic overdrive and suspect the master ...as you have good luck...

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"Show me the Mini!"

I had the same problem Wolfman but I called in the brake expert. What he told me was to crack open the nipple and give the brake pedal two or three quick hard pushes the get the fluid through. Repeat if necessary.

What he did was attach a bleeder bottle that was hooked up to a compressor onto the nipple and then used it to pull the fluid through the system then we did the pedal pump to finish it off.

The aftermarket wheel cylinders often have a real small bleed hole. It fills with crap and blocks up.
I use a Cigweld 1.5mm? oxy tip cleaning drill, these are good, they have little plastic knobs for twirling with your fingers...
Come in a set at your local weld bits shop. Cheap too. Or just use a drill from your drill set.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Wolfman, you're running exactly the same brake setup as me Ive got an exchange dual circuit master cylinder ordered, was hoping it would be here today

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78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

Silly me should learn to RTFM , according to the book I should be bleeding both front and back right together first then left front rear together when using a dual circuit master Could that cause this problem? I think I'll give it a try first thing in the morning.
Doc I thought it may have been a blocked bleeder but I disconnected the break line and only a drop or 2 came from it.

How old is that rear hose? The buggers close up when real old..
Also if you stand on it real hard the limiting valve can cut in and block it off to the rears...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there Doc, I replaced the front about a month ago as they looked pretty bad and I should have checked the rears as well but outa sight I just had a quick look and they're caked in road grime and crap so I'd say they're just as bad as the fronts were (and that's bad) I'll be grabbing a pair of hoses as soon as next door gets back with his car Looks like it's going to be a bugger of a job to replace too

I had the same problem with my rear hoses, got em off and found they were both blocked solid, no fluid could come through. I cut em in half to get the bastards off, and you couldn't see where the fluid used to go, it was solid. Get new ones and good luck.

Much easier to get at and replace with back of catr well off ground, use axle stands under rear body (with spreader plates natch) and a trolley thing to get in there.

Cheers
matt

Yup, she was blocked up tight alright and cracking up. A bugger of a job but I managed to replace the blocked one, the other one is working fine and looks in better nick so it's staying there till I have more time, Sunday more than likely At least they work now
Now to my next problem, my handbrake To put it simply it aint holdin squat yet the lever only pulls 2 clicks (3 if you really yank it). Rear drums are adjusted correctly with virtually new pads. Any ideas?

wolfy how are the quadrants nice and free or hard and sticky (sounds sexual)
the quadrants are the things at the front of the subframe that the brake cable runs through
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

I just redid my back brakes and sorted out the cable problems. I'd do as Makka says, get under the rear of the car, check out the cable and how it runs. There is a part near the middle where the cable is supposed do a right angled turn and slides back and forth inside a bracket thungy, make sure that is greased up nice. Then make sure the quadrant swivel thingies are free. Lastly make sure you have enough meat on the rear shoes...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

fark I have been bleeding my brakes for weeks and they STILL aren't right!

I like the sound of the bleeder.