Just got the car back and already trouble.

A) Prob. got a speeding ticket on Princess Highway at 12.30am last week taking the car home (I never drive there so forgot about the camera - the bloody M5 was closed eastbound, but not before you pay the toll, so I had to take a different route)

B) I had continuous problems with oil in my water (ie mayo on the radiator cap) but no water in the oil. This was probably a tiny crack in the block, and was fixed with barleaks type product. Plus the radiator has the tendency to loose water - ie it doesnt seem to leak, and keeps the car very cool when its full, but every time you fill it up, it takes just a few hours of driving to cause the water level to drop below the gills (ie no water can be seen). This rad has been punctured before (screws used were too long) but I had it proffesionaly repaired.

Now I just had to take the engine out and apart again (long story), but not surprisingly perhaps, after it has been reassembled, the oil is sipping into the water again and the water level too cant be maintained, now before I install a heater I wanted to sort it all out. I guess that "barleaks" etc, would fix the oil leak into the water, and its feasible that the absense of water in oil suggests oil is being expelled under pressure and maybe that pressure is expeling the water out of the radiator?

Any ideas? This has been bugging me for ages now and I'd like to fix it. I know that many people (most dunno what the're talking about ) would say 'get rid of the radiator" but I just want to make sure I can clearly pinpoint the problem, before I begin buying stuff to solve it.

You could either take the car to a radiator place and get a pressure test.. or put some more sealant in it. I've found Loctite `radiator stop leak' is not bad...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

But what do you think of my resoning (cranckase pressure = gas and oil into water = gas expells water from radiator)? Is it feasible?

i would say if the head is off taking that in and gettting a crack test done on it.
sounds as if something is cracked and leaking water into the bore/oil galleries.

Mike didn't you have an oil issue with this block this originally? Didn't GR deck it to clean up?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mike have a look at ya hoses when i put water in on the day it was leaking so i tightend the hose clamps make sure they are all tight
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

I did, and he did deck it. So I think we can safely asume that its not the head (as the issue was both with the old head and the new one) infact the whole original rebuild was primarily to stop this bloody oil leak.

Do a pressure test on the radiator and see what this reveals, then find a workshop with a gas analyser and ask them to put it in the radiator neck with the car running. If it detects fuel vapour you will see a reading on the analyser. This means you have a compression leak. If you do not get a reading then you most probably have an oil leak from the block. I guess it is also possible that the oil feed to the head is leaking as Kevin is alluding to. It definitly sounds like a head gasket problem at first glance but cars have strange ways of proving us wrong. Are you using good head studs, if they are not you might be getting stretch causing the gasket to blow. Best of luck, but it is depressing trying to find problems like this.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.