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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 9:40 pm 
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Mazda Coral Red....Dont think it came out on RX7s...i think it was on like RX5s and the like...Its a Mica Wine red... 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 9:46 pm 
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J_A_M wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Davo,
Anton's family bought my 850 in primer, it was done about 9? years ago. Guess what.. hardly any rust was under it. :lol:


yes but there is about 5 different colours under the primer.... :lol:

And wasn't that original Sunset Red baked enamel a bugger.. I gave up trying to strip it....:lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 9:56 pm 
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yes, we will rub back to that colour then we will just buff it! :lol:

I wish it was that easy!

Nice sig Kev :lol: who did it??


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 9:58 pm 
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J_A_M wrote:
yes, we will rub back to that colour then we will just buff it! :lol:

I wish it was that easy!

Nice sig Kev :lol: who did it??

Chongo..... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:08 pm 
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nice one Chong :P


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:09 pm 
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As a side note...Did all Minis (Or K's at least) come with the number plate flap on the boot lid?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:13 pm 
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MiniK wrote:
As a side note...Did all Minis (Or K's at least) come with the number plate flap on the boot lid?

Yes all Minis, in Oz at least.
Early cars (850, 997 Cooper) had a wider flap to take a Pommy number plate.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:16 pm 
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affirmative


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:44 pm 
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Thanks for that Gents! 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:47 pm 
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Another thing besides the rust that is sure to be growing underneath the primer is that fact that, because primer is porous (as everyone has pointed out), it not only lets the moisture through, but then retains it. When you paint over with airtight paint later, the moisture that is stuck underneath expands and leaves little bubbles in your paint, like blisters. Hot conditions and leaving it in direct sunlight only make the bubbles come out quicker.

It is better for you own sake to prime the body and paint quite soon after, and make sure that you keep the body dry. Maybe bake it a bit first.... :D


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 11:02 pm 
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Dave, I rubbed to bare metal, then sprayed Maxsolve over the metal. Left that for many months, then washed off with petrol before priming.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 6:37 pm 
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J_A_M wrote:
Dave, I rubbed to bare metal, then sprayed Maxsolve over the metal. Left that for many months, then washed off with petrol before priming.


Similar to fish oil??

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 6:39 pm 
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Maxsolve is similar to Selleys RP7, or WD40. It's a water displacer.
We used to buy it by the carton at Rheem... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 6:50 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Maxsolve is similar to Selleys RP7, or WD40. It's a water displacer.
We used to buy it by the carton at Rheem... :wink:


Oh righto....well I previously covered the bonnet in WD40 as it had been stripped some time ago now and it kept it ok....Theres an option as well.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2005 7:38 pm 
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lanolin is even better!


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