This happened on the weekend going to the all brit day, cruising with my girl in the car and dad and mum in the lotus 7 and then pulled into kings and all i hear is clack clack clack with wheel speed as soon as you take load off the drive train (clutch in or out of gear) noise goes and when you are at a constant speed you cant really hear it but i think that is mainly the noise of the car over taking the noise of the problem

in the car park i jacked up the car and had a squizzy to see not much, all i can see is the hardy spicer has a bit of play i think, when i turn the wheel (in gear) and there seemsto be a bit of back lash before the diff and i can grab the drive shaft and move it up and down a few mm but the drive flange off the box does not really move at all, it was hard to see under the std mini jack plus i did not want to stay under for too long as i do not trust it. so i hopefully will get a look tonight.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Probably a knackered U/J. Cheap to buy, I have some new if you get stuck.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

fingers xed Doc, i will hopefully have a look tonight if i get time, i would say karcraft hold them in stock?

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Yep $28 ea approx. Cheap eh...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok some updates,

i got home last night and started to pull the left side apart, droped the top ball joint and slid off the uni joint with yoke and i find the uni to be in pretty good cond, very little play but some and i think it is ok, looked over the hub, caliper and bearings all seem ok.
check the CV and it also has a little play but not heaps.

the noise i have seems a little CV like with the clicking sound but no noise at all when off throttle or in neutral and no noise at all on full lock (have not tried this in reverse yet)

CV's are not so cheep so i do not want to just replace it if it is not stuffed.

does any local sydney guy have a spare left side axel and CV i could try in the car just to see if it goes.

i would remove the drivers side and just swap CV's from side to side but if i had another axel and CV to through in it would be great.

if this is the noise i will be happy but if it is not then it must be in the diff

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

PM sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the conclusion is that it is in the GB, it is mainly in 2nd gear and only minor in 1st and nothing at all in the other gears and its only with load at low speed, when i turn the car off and keep rolling and put clutch in a keep it in 2nd gear there is a deffinate clack/tick/knock type noise
when you drive, it does not feel like a tooth or anything off the gear and the syncro is good so i think maybe its a bearing noise, what is the type of bearing they have on 2nd gear? is it one of the needle rollers? or the big ball bearing one i cant remember.
its only in 2nd i think i will be ok for the dyno and just use 3rd for it, then i will take the box out and have a look.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

All the gears in your K box do have needle rollers in them, but more likely it's the layshaft wearing out at the 1st gear end. They are a known wear point. UK layshafts available lately wear much faster than the Oz made ones..

<edit> As 2nd gear synchro is good the needles inside it should be OK..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks DOC you have won again, i will strip it after the dyno but not drive it till then and see how we go

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

ok so the update.

i purchased a new engine crane on the weekend as i have moved house and i do not have a rafter in my garage to use the block and tackle.

so i drained the oil and found one tooth on the sump plug so im guessing the damage is good, i got a mini k box casing from the doc too so i will transfers whats good into it and whats not i will replace.
in the mean time i got a MKI "S" box to throw under it just to keep me on the road, at the same time i will replace the rings and bearing in the motor plus the oil pump, cam and followers too.
just not sure on the cam to use.

any suggestions for a good high performance turbo cam?

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

re-13?
731
sw5

Didn't some one get a special version of an RE-13 for boosted applications ?

Kazijm ??? Maybe

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

yup james had GR spin up one for him
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Maybe a bit tame for you Grant, but give GR a call - he should still have the specs on hand (or at least, in his head !)

maybe get a little more intake duration if you can...... mine starts to give good power from about 3000 so in yours that would be about 2500 .... you can run a larger cam and suffer less nasties than me !

Good luck Mate
J

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thanks guys,

i used to run a 731 when i first fitted the turbo and it was pretty good for that low power drive everyday car, the current cam i have is a kent turbo cam with 310 lift exhaust and 290 lift intake and its pretty good but i am just checking my options i guess.

alos looking at the med turbo one and the phase 3 avonbar one too.

i really do not care what it is like to drive cause when i do drive it its allways above 5k and on 15psi

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing