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 Post subject: newbie's clutch
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 5:05 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 6:34 pm
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Location: North Ryde - NSW
alright guys...
need some help...

well i just got my mini bought and serviced..apparently everythings seems alright...
err..the seller told me he uses premium unleaded...with a lead addictive..and so ive been using it as well(shell optimax actually)

so as i was collecting my car today,and cruising around,i realise some things i need to ask from you guys...

firstly
1)what petrol should i be using?(assuming my car is original and nothing changed
----73 leyland clubbie)
2)after pumping petrol today,there were times my ignition warning light has been up and ive got problem switching gears--mostly downing gears
3)initially when i tried driving it i realise(with my total ignorance and memory to tell greg at mini classics)that switching down/up to 2nd gear there were times where my clutch will go "ggggrrrgggrrrr" sound and i could not hit into second gear causing me to get stuck on neutral
4)today on my way back the problem is surfacing also sometimes on my 3rd gear...(it usually applies when im switching down gear,and the noise is really noisy and i cant hit my gear,causing me to remain in neutral which is FREAKING DANGEROUS on the roads...
5)ive got a habbit to use engine break so sometimes i do switch lower gears since our cars need longer reaction time,thus my leg may be still tapping the brake pedal which i realise that if i down gear its better if i dun tap my brake at all..but still there are times when i cant engage my 2nd or 3rd gear-and the ignition warning light seems to light up...and i get stuck in neutral where i quickly have to pull over to the side of the road...
6)im wondering if its the downing gear and uping limit..as to reconfirm for the 4 gears roughly how high do you change? eg
1st gear 0 - 15
2nd gear 15 - 25
3rd gear 25 - 40
4th gear 40 - above
thats what im doing right now correct me if im wrong
6)is it my driving habbits or theres something wrong with the clutch?

do enlighten me..
many thanks

oh ya..if the guy who taught me about the wrench/jack and changing of tires at greg's store today sees this..many thanks...was in a rush and greg was kinda busy so couldnt hang out to chat or learn..sorrie

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 Post subject: Re: newbie's clutch
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 5:46 am 
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1) Petrol...for a stocko motor i would probably only use standard unleaded with some flashlube (lead additive - which can be bought directly at some servo's or repco etc..)...

Use BP Ultimate if going for premium stuff...I'd stay away from Optimax as it's designed for newer car's with injector's and contains allot of additives for them...but personally with current petrol prices i'd only use standard unleaded unless it's pinging..

2) Ignition warning light, not sure which light your talking about, could be the alternator light or oil pressure light (most likely if your driving very fast around a right hander) though this is unrelated to your gearbox issue..

3) Which brings us to the gear crunch when changing down gears, which is either clutch adjustment, a problem with air or a leak in the system, worn clevis pins or worn synchro's in the box itself.

To change down gear's try double clutching.

When in 3rd and wanting to go down to second. First put the clutch in, pull the gearstick into neutral out of gear, let the clutch fully out..Now blip the throttle to bring the revs in line to what they would be in the lower gear (the idea is to match the gear speed of the lower gear) as you blip the throttle when the revs get around what the would be when in the lower gear, push the clutch back in and select 2nd gear.

If done properly this may prevent you crunching your gears, in which case it would be your synchro's..(engine out job to replace them in the g/box..) Though it could be perfectly fine to drive around with the car like this if you can manage to not crunch the gears, i did this in my first mini for a year..

5) I'm sort of unclear what's happening here, you using the engine to help brake yes? It should not make a difference if you are braking when selecting a lower gear at all, in fact if your any good, you can brake and double clutch at the same time ;)

I have no idea why one of the warning lights would light up when changing down a gear? :?

6) Are these mph or km/h? If mph they are about spot on for normal usage i would suppose..

You need to listen to your motor and what it's telling you, but generally they sound ok..if km/h your changing to early..

6) Could be you...but i'm betting to say it's either a leaky master or slave cylinder, air in the system, worn out clevis pins, clutch arm..clutch adjustment or dodgy synchros or a combination of some or all of these..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 6:24 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Hi Don,

Glad to see that you are already cruising around in your mini! :wink:

I am also glad you took it to Greig Malure!

As Josh says always use flashlube when topping up on petrol. Buy a 1 litre bottle from Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco for about $25ish? (Haven't bought a bottle for some time). When I run on anything else but BP Ultimate, my car runs totally crap... I've tried Optimax, Mobile Synergy (by far the worste! :? ) and Caltex Vortex 98 and all have been unfavourable. With BP on the other hand it runs very nice...

When Greig looked at you car, did he have a fiddle with the clutch? Does the clutch engage high on the pedal? I bet there could be an adjustment problem. When I first got my car, the first thing I did was replace all external moving clutch parts like gudgeon pins, clutch arm and parts etc. This made the clutch engage quite high on the pedal which means that the gears completely dissengage before changing gears. It may not be it, but if I were you I'd do the simple things first like clutch adjustment before moving onto more complicated (and costly!!) diagnosis...

Also since you just bought the car, I HIGHLY recommend that you change the oil and oil filter. Since you don't know how long it's been since the previous owner changed the oil it's good practice to do it. You can do this is 10 mins (well at least I can :wink: )

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 7:44 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
My car runs 10.7:1 C/R- I also use BP Ultimate, but I've found Mobil 8000 just as good, Caltex Vortex 98 runs OK too. I won't use Optimax unless I have to.... but it's not too bad. IMO...... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 7:49 am 
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I think it's just a stocko 998/1098 clubby? by the way it sounds that he drives, i would not think it to be of any benefit to run premium unless it was pinging or didn't run well on standard fuel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 11:16 am 
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I notice no difference between the 98 octane fuels available. Maybe it's because my engine isnt the hottest 1275 in the shed, but meh. I do notice difference over lesser octane fuels though.

I run both my 1275 LS and stock Mini K van (1100) on optimax (cause I get the 4c off a litre thing).

I use flashlube only. A litre bottle will set ya back $18ish? Maybe cheeper.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 4:41 pm
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Always use Premium Unleaded, these cars are 40 years old and were designed to use the petrols of the day, they were much higher octanes back then, they brought them down as newer cars didn't need them to be such high octane(and the uel companies could make more money) yes it is more expensive but it is better for your car.
In regards to the clutch, do as Chong has said and check it's adjustment. When was it last bled? If it wasn't bled recently it may need a flush and bleed. brake/clutch fluid has a tendancy to suck up water. If nothing work, PM me and pop over to my place and i will have a quick look and see if i can tell you what is up. I am in Carlingford.

Cheers

Aaron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 5:54 pm 
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848cc
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Location: North Ryde - NSW
hi all.
to reconfirm my understanding.

mini mad--clutch readjustment--to adjust the level of strength/deepness the pedals need to be in to disengage the gear/engine to make a switch.Thanks for the idea about the pedals,i will try it later tonight.As for the parts like synchros,i was wondering what is it?and where its located?

68 delux--Changing oil and oil filter--using the oil up and change it?are you talking about the engine oil or normal petrol oil?but with regards to the oil filter im not too sure which part are you talking about?issit located inside the oil tank?or fuel pump or what?how do you change it?

aarron--how do you bleed(and what is it)?i reckon its something to do with the brake and clutch cylinder.are you saying to empty it and refill it with fresh new fluids?btw,what reccomendation of fluids should it (both)be replaced with?
hmmm..apparently im using premium unleaded..but people are telling me to use unleaded only..i reckon it doesnt make a difference doesnt it?

hey guys..since you guys are always online..
add me on msn if you guys have any

and many thanks for your patience and help.

[email protected]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 6:26 pm 
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the difference between std and premium unleaded is quite substantial and i would recommend anyone with a mini to run premium. ALWAYS.

Bleeding the clutch requires the loosening of the bleed nipple on the back of the slave cylinder (the thing the clutch arm is attched to via a rod) attching a legth of suitable sized hose and either emptying it back into the master cylinder or into another container. If you are doing flush out, you will need to have it go into another container. Once this is all setup have someone push the clutch in and out over a count of two. keep topping up the master cylinder so as not to let it run dry. when buying brake/clutch fluid. but a different colour to the one you have exisiting, that way you will know you have replensihed the system with all new fluids. Once you are satisfied the system is all fresh. have the pumping clutch person hold the pedal to the floor whilst you retighten the bleed nipple.

Cheers

Aaron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 7:06 pm 
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848cc
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well SUPER bad news.
apparently ive brought it for a round or two to try it out...(before any mechanical expertise i rope in) and tried the method--mini mad-- intro..it worked for awhile before it starts to crunch in again...(for precaution i took it to isolated roads)
im quite sure it isnt my driving...and now ive got prob starting in first gear...apparently the damn stick seems to be stuck...ive tried to use a SUBSTANTIAL amount of force to try to engage in first gear to drive off..it doesnt work anymore...now my car is stuck on my driveway...im worried i might be banging walls so i think im gona lay off for today..

well i think i better seek help as im sure if im on a busy street this would be total madness and frustration..haha... :?

*seeking help...*

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 Post subject: Home Visit
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
I'm afraid you will either need to study the Technical Manual then go and check a few things like clutch adjustment and bleeding or beg for someone on Ausmini to come and wave a magic wand to get you going....

Is it stuck in gear...you realise you can try taking off in second....

otherwise, get it towed to someone who knows Minis :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:37 pm 
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aaron wrote:
the difference between std and premium unleaded is quite substantial and i would recommend anyone with a mini to run premium. ALWAYS.


I disagree with that, unless the car is pinging on a lesser grade fuel there will be minimal if any perfomance differance than running a premium fuel.

I would suggest always running premium fuel if it had work done and/or was running a high CR, but it's not, it's a stock small block and IMO standard unleaded and a lead substitute is all that is required.

dondon, either find someone to have a look at your car for you from here, i think that you will be able to find your problem and maybe suggestions on what way to go about fixing it, but you will most likely end up taking it to greig at mini classic anyway.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:33 pm 
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each to there own opinion, i respect your right to your's. Mine is just based on my experience with my various mini's. Putt putt (bog stock std 998) included :wink:

Cheers

Aaron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:42 pm 
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8)

I guess they're all different, but I ran my old stock 998 on unleaded and it ran fine, and even my fairly worked 1098 will run on unleaded fine..not that i use it unless it's the only thing available..

I say if you run it on standard unleaded and the car runs fine, stay with it, if it has problems pinging and it's running not as well, pay the price for premium...It's an individual's choice..

Would be interesting to see who doesn't run premium..stay tuned for a poll ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 7:11 am 
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No Worries! Dr Mini's Apprentice to the rescue!!! (That or going over to break things even more! :oops: )

I will be catching up with Don sometime this week as his car is completely stuck and can't find gears! :shock: So Lillee the mobile mechanics will be out there soon! :wink: :P

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