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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 3:01 pm 
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Location: NSW Australia
Hi all,

I've decided I've gotta pull my finger out and start working semi-full time on my mini. Its a Mini Deluxe, and I actually have 2 shells, and quite a few parts.
http://members.dodo.com.au/~thechairman/
There are some pictures there, and what I need is some advice on how I should set about doing this.
I don't have a lot of money, but because I'm now living in a flat with my gf, I now have a garage with plenty of room to house the Mini and to work on it.
What sort of tools will I need and what should I start working on first? I plan to strip the shell down, panel beat, and get it all primed. What will be the best way to strip the shell (read: cheaply!)?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 4:07 pm 
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Quote:
What will be the best way to strip the shell (read: cheaply!)?


wet and dry sandpaper and lotsa elbow grease


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 4:09 pm 
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is it the green one or the red one or are they the same?

Speaking from experience, if it's the original paint, it should not be too difficult to strip with coarse wet/dry paper and brute strength. That's how I did most of mine. I got lazy in parts and used a sanding disc on a drill.....BIIIIGGGG NO NO....it digs into the metal and fooks it up.

Paint stripper is messy shite, and burns like hell if you get it on you hands ... :oops: like I did.

The hardest part of doing a resto is prepping for paint. When I say hard, I mean Psychologically, as it looks far worse before it starts to look better. Most projects get abandoned in this stage. Once you get paint on it (like mine :wink: ) you can see the final picture and motivation remains high.

Start with the shell, then do your bolt on panels, paint them all, then do your subframes. Then get it rolling again and it is really starting to take shape.

Of course opinion will vary, this is from my own experience only....I am no mini god and don't want to sound likeone. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 8:28 pm 
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I agree with JAM. It's the big ticket things that stop most projects. Get the bodywork done first. As JAM said, when you see that coming together, the rest is downhill. Even if you don't get the you-beaut engine/gearbox in, you can fix up the suspension/subframe in a couple of weeks, drop in a second hand donk, wire it up and chuck in a temporary interior just to get it rolling and then fix it as the money comes around. That way, you have your beloved min on the road, looking pretty schmick and you get the fun of driving as well as restoring and it's only off the road every now and then

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 9:53 pm 
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Easiest way to strip a shell cheaply - An angle grinder with one of those twisted knot wire brushes on it - definately need the saftey glasses though

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 9:59 pm 
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Has anyone had a shell sand blasted or similar?
Or chemical stripping?


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 Post subject: Not personaly...........
PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 10:42 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Has anyone had a shell sand blasted or similar?
Or chemical stripping?


However, there is a grit blaster in the woods of Fyshwick that appears to know what he is doing....I have seen his handywork......and evidently Prepsol on bare metal ain't the way to go anymore..... :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 10:46 pm 
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i have heard that nut shells are also good for stripping paint
makka

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 10:50 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
......and evidently Prepsol on bare metal ain't the way to go anymore..... :roll:


huh :?:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2004 11:01 pm 
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the best way is the cheap wire wheels, just put them in a drill it works a treat!!! available at all good hardware stores and $2 shops!!

bare metal resprays ...the way to go!!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 7:11 am 
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4" dia twistknot wire wheel in 4" angle grinder. Fastest way known to rip off loose rust, bog, paint, etc and the wire wheel lasts for ages. Much better than the cup wire wheels- you can use more pressure. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 2:01 pm 
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Location: Rakaia, NZ
I've used a wheel on the angle grinder which looks like a radiator fan, but the pieces of sandpaper overlap. It stripped a door down to bare metal in about 10 minutes, doesn't rip into the metal at all so no worries about damaging the skin and shifts all looses rust. They last quite well as well. Also did the boot and the results are excellent. Only problem is tight corners or seams although you can get quite close. Got mine from Mitre 10 (don't know if you guys have this store in Aus), but Bunnings has them as well. Well worth a look and play if you've not seen them before..


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