1st and 2nd corner at Winton. Love it there, can see 90% of the track.

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Gaf wrote - "The Cooper S Crank as above just needs a polish on the mains only...who ever installed it last time did not put ACL Bearings into..so just a little polish is required"

What is the importance of the ACL bearings?

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Steve

Gaf got the story wrong. It had copper lead main bearings in it, they wore the mains just a bit. The crankpins had ACL aluminium/tin ones, they were fine- no wear at all.
I prefer aluminium tin on road motors...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

did you not get the 12G1683 crank over there?
doesnt GR have his own type of cranks? I would be looking at those if they are cost effective.
IM about to send a crank off today to oz and I have about 3 more i need to bring with me for stroking while im there next week.

Gees time flies when you flat out.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

12G1683... the tufftrided 1505 one... maybe, but I've never seen one. Last Mini 1275 made here 1978 and 1275 Moke 1981.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Gafmo,
I don't want to be controversial but I guess I am. The picture of the 'S' crank seems to show it as being made from the 12G1505A forging which is not EN40B material. You can see the 12 and the A either side of where it is stamped AEG480 (the A is indistinct).
When the OZ MK2 'S' was introduced in 1969 one of the disappointing features was the lack of an EN40B crank. The cranks were made from the 12G1505A forging and ground to suit the 'S' main bearing widths and the small journal big ends. They were tuftrided rather than nitrided as they are made from different steel which is not suited to the nitriding process. I have a similar crank in my car at present and the 12G1505A is quite distinct. The block is a MK2 block so it would have most likely had this crank as original. If it was an EN40B crank it will have EN40B in raised lettering forged into it. Some of the first MK2 cars apparently had EN40B cranks as Kevin has one in one of his cars.

I am standing by for the flack!

Regards
RonR

Gaffers i have N idea about cranks, so all i can say is good luck!!

In terms of the colour of the engine, i have been thinking long and hard about it,
It really should either be red or green to match your suspension and brakes.
otherwise you wil have tooooo many colours (red, green and purple). Thats
my opinion on the colour thing.

Ron, I thought that stamping looked a but dodgy too when I saw it close up..
But the webs look to me more like S ones than those on my 12G1505 stroker...??

Yep, both my Mk 1 and Mk2 S motors had EN40B cranks. Great for road motors, IMO- they hardly wear at all if you use good oil and change it often. My last motor had my Mk2 crank in, which had laid under my boss's house in a box for 14 years. I polished the rust off it, fitted it to the 1100S block, and revved the crap out of it for 45,000 miles until the piston seized at Wakefield.
When I measured at last teardown it was STILL the same size, .010/.010, within grinding limits.
I'm running the Mk1 S crank now. It wasn't cracked and Spiro did a nice regrind job so it should live for years in the 1360 auto block.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Miniron...cheers.....yep I noticed that also..but I'm not to worried aboutit now.....I just hope this crank is not cracked at all...but I'll mention this to Spiro as he will be able to inform me anyway

does the tuftrided or nitrided mkae it ting differntly.. yer I'm did not get a call yesturday or today...so i'm in three diffenrt mindes..

Eather he was not able test it yesturday or today...or..it all fine and he's just gone on to do as I asked..or personal....situation which I will not go into.


But .....I'll be calling spiro tomorrow morning to find out where I am

If this crank is cracked or not a EN40B crank...$ spent unwisely
and I have to start again

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Hi Gafmo,Kevin,
As far as I know you wouldn't be able to tell what material it was made from just by listening to the sound. A few metalurgical tests would be required also. Maybe those with heaps of experience in these matters may be able to tell. The important thing is whether it's cracked or not and the first basic test is whether it has a clear ringing sound rather than a dull clunk. Just the same process the railways used to use to check for cracked wheels. They had a team of wheel tappers that walked up and down trains tapping the wheels and listening to the sound.
The fact that it's not made of EN40B isn't really a problem for normal use. The tuftriding process not only hardens the surface but also increases the fatigue resistance of the metal. As the cranks get older you can have problems with crystalisation of the metal and they can break without any warning. This applies to most metals.
I've never had to get an S crank of either type reground even after 150000 miles. Still use standard main and bigend shells. If you do need to get it reground it may have to be rehardened but this depends on what undersize it is reground to. Expert advice required here from heat treatment specialists.
As an aside the Morris 1100 manual lists several different small journal 1275 cranks all made of different metals and each requiring a different treatment if they are reground.
Seems like BMC were experimenting with a number of different metals for 1275 cranks and then decided to go with the big journal 1275 crank.
(This is just speculation on my part)

Regards
RonR

Go the Fremantle Dockers colour scheme

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Too many cars, and too little time.

maybe my ears are a little more in tune with cranks than others but TODAY i was going thru my cranks and giving the tap test between the different kinds of cranks and i have
EN40 B AEA480 crank
EN16T 12A something
12G2827 (south african crank)
12G1683 tuftrided crank
12G1505 nitrded cranks
12G1505A crank
1098 998 A and A+ cranks
CAM6263 A+ cranks sitting on my shelf and nearly every one makes a different sound when tapped and none of them are cracked (electromagnetically checked)

The cracked ones make a thunk sound but a good crank will ring for a long time after being tapped.

I also believe once you grind the crank once it should be retreated but it never is and this will cause a cranks to wear again and again hence causing the need for bigger bearings. But saying that cranks wear for different reasons and the way they are assembled and driven.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

Well I gave the good Doctor Spiro a call this morning.
Well he has advised we have a very Nice Nitrad 1275 Cooper S Crank with no Cracks at all.
I asked if it was the real deal...and he confirmed it

I have asked for it to be taken to .40thou on the mains only as thier was a grove on the centre and a little on the outers...


So am I happy...you Betcha..Thanks Simon..for that loverly crank

Minicranks and Miniron thanks for the info that you have provided and I'm sure this info will be hady to others also

I should be getting my little baby back shortly and will go into storage till I have cleaned up the Block then handed it to GR for him to work his wonder

Fremantal docker colours...not sure about that.

Kev.. your ears are still good

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Gaf, that's good to `hear' (pun intended).
I do have one dud ear but the other's not bad.

BTW love your avatar...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

great news mate, now to get the beast up and running

Does a good crank help when you throw 22psi of boost at it?? hint hint gaf...

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs