I can rev it in neutral, with lights on or off, or as I said run it on axle stands at 110K, and it's fine.
If it was a voltage stabilizer problem, the temp gauge would be reading funny, and no, mine isn't.

Out of all the things I changed, only one that altered it was tyres. Bridgestones on and it is OK. Pity they don't handle like the Yokos, so I took them back off....

Gotta be static. BTW, I do get a good belt whenever I get out of the car, even if hanging onto the body.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is that what those things are hanging beneath some (jap?) cars? An earth?

Yeah but they seldom touch the ground....
I'll hang a foot of steel chain on it like the tanker drivers used to..

Hmmm... any truckers out there- what are the bristle brush thingies in the mudguards of tankers etc for? static conduction, I wonder??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

to stop spray in the wet and to clean the tyers
makka

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Actually Duc, the sender sits backwards facing the back so if this were true, when you accelerate the tank should read more full than it is because the float is pointed towards the back of the car and if the fuel is as the back (being pushed back by acceleration) then the reader should read more full

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

mine was faceing forward ....
but his car is a van

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errr... ok.. anyway i think Doc's explanation is good

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

well, thanks all for ur replies.
i think i have the same problem as u dr mini, but i dont think we can put it down to anything except mini's are special

i know of the jerry can trick. i may go for a country drive next weekend and with a jerry can and wait till i run out.

normally i drive fast and after i stop, the guage goes back, not to where it was but close to it.. stupid mini;s

Binding Brakes ????

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Ben

just had a long think, nope that's not it lol.
coz it goes down quick when i go fast, comes back when i stop but nowhere near as much and i have to refill much quicker than if i drive soft, and it's always about $15 for fuel but there's a difference between 5 days if i drive it ulta soft on $15 or 2 days if i drive it fast.

im confident there's a leak or im running stupidly rich and maybe even oversized jets on the carb, ie setup for a bigger car. i'm prolly gonna fit all new fuel hoses. any idea how much that'll set me back?

if that doesnt work i'll get it dyno tuned to make sure its all schmick.

What do you mean by "funny"?

The temp gauge and fuel gauge on roundnose Cooper, S, auto, and K are both fed 10V from the voltage stabilizer behind the speedo. Usually when stabilizer is stuffed it fuses its terminals together, giving 12V+ output, and the temp gauge then goes off the scale....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

speaking of off scale! - i think my speedometer is wrong, it shows that im doing 60 when im actually onli "i think" doin abt 50....

is there anyway to correct this?...or is it time to change me speedo

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98 brg rover

when was the last time you replace the air filter ??
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Oh thanks doc.

Ryan maybe its time to deal with real problems - plus how do you know "think" that its 50? I mean depending on the road, weather, surrondings etc there's no way you can "just know". But in general speedos are made to show higher speed than actual, this is to compensate for their tendency to show lower speed as the speedo gets older and looses magnetic qualities.