Has anybody had their mini acid dipped? I had a quote, today to dip the traveller shell and all the panels .

How about $2500.00 i sh#t myself , was not expecting that.

Anybody know anybody that has had it done and how much did it cost?

Makes the panel and paint very expensive.

I dont have the time to do a hand rub or paint strip like J.A.M just looking for the ezy way out or is there no ezy way?

Adam.

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I swerve and hit people at random.

Try Mr Clean at padstow - sorry have lost their card.

The Panel Beater who came and gave a talk at one of our meetings a couple of months back recommended them for bead blasting. Not Sandblasting, but bead blasting with glass beads so as not to ward panels. I think it was around a grand, and the most thorough and clean way to strip a car. Give 'em a call and ask how much

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Bob Slattery
Duffman Says A Lot of Things - OH YEAH!!

Redi Strip at Blacktown, quoted me around $1200 about 6 month's ago. That was bare shell, no boot, bonnet, doors or sub frames.

ive heared bad things about acid dipping cos it gets into the welds and slowly
corodes away as you never get all of it out and then any sealaant around the
welds you cant get to also dissapears, so i reckon get it blasted

Hey Fig Jam, did you buy tat mk1 in your avatatr from Shannons auctions?

Thanx czerial that's a worry I think I will try the bead blast.
Thank's all
Adam

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I swerve and hit people at random.

I've had 1 car dipped (It was actually an alkaline bath not acid), one bead blasted and a few stripped by sanding and paint stripper. I would never use the later method again - too messy and labour intensive. The dipping does a more thorough job - removing old plastic filler, body deadener and cleaning up the rust. It even leaves a film on the surface that protects the car from environmental moisture for a few weeks if left undisturbed. My S was done about 15 years ago and there's still no signs of rust or corroded joints, but it was treated with fishoil in all the box sections before painting. Bead blasting is fine removing most paints, but doesn't remove bitumous paint or bodydeadener, nor does it get into every nook and cranny. One pain in the butt aspect of bead blasting is trying to remove all the beads that worked their way into the box sections and float out whenever a spray gun comes near. You can spend weeks vacuuming and airblasting the box sections to get them clear.
Both cost similar $ - you make your choice.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

No, I didn't buy the car, I just like the picture. It's the same colour as mine when I finish the restoration.

I got a quote about 5 months ago from a place in black town.. 1100 for the shell 150 for the doors and 100 for boot and bonet.

But I would go the bead blast. 2 ways you car go there, do it your self if you got a good air compressor. a 10 gallon tank blaster will set you back around 200. set up the garage and away you go..

Or get a mob to come out and do it for you. look up abrasive cleaning in the yellow pages.

Not sure what media they use the most. I hear baking soda stuff works a treat.. thats seams to be getting used lots in the usa for hot rod resto

One of the painting contractors I do business with has a bath & quoted me a discount price of $850 to do the moke (obviously no doors, etc) which I thought was a bit much.

Contrary to reports of it "slowly corroding away" the seams it actually passivates the steel, making it both a better surface to paint than bare steel & also affording some protection to unreachable areas. The choice of all classic restorers, but $$$pricey & I'm on a budget

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Quoted today on plastic bead blasting shell all doors hinges and subframes stripped and etch primed $1500.00. Looks like that 's the way we will go thanx for all your input.
Adam

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I swerve and hit people at random.