... i've only won 1 auction on Ebay, and i think the guy is shafting me already, cos i got it for half of what he thought he could get...

(BTW, it was a complete Morris 1100S and a Morris 1100 for $122.50 total... )

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

I already emailed them yesterday and got the price list today. What I could use (if you can) is your experience with the Dellortos in terms of assembling it and tunning. The carb has 30mm chokes in and I'll found out the rest tommorow. I'm gonna get some 34mm ones probably (for a 1275, 12G940 head, long cam etc) and probably put a kit through it.


BTW about the reserve price Ebay still used to charge you extra for setting a high reserve and there is lots of merrit to their claims that reserve actions dont do as well as open priced ones.

30mm chokes are way too small for a 1275. Use 34s or 36s....

When I had the 34 chokes in mine, on the Redline manifold, 277/286cam etc, it ran sweet with 50 idle jets, 150 mains, 170 airs.

You can buy Oz made repair kits here, no need to bring in. Any spares shop can get them. `Fuel Miser' p/no DE250.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

BTW Dellorto.co.uk (eurocarb) quoted me 14 pounds excluding VAT for each 34mm choke. Thats pretty expensive?

They are even dearer here, but you can't get them now.

I got 2 spare 34s now, but I might sell them to you in a month, after I'm sure I'm happy with my current 36s. So far, so good..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can sell them to me now and if youre unhappy with your 36's I'll give them back to you and get some new ones.

BTW how hard is it to put a kit through one of those?

I'll pm you tonite- I gotta go to work...

Real easy to fit kit. 1/2 hr after you've cleaned it all up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool I gotta go to bed, just got from work. In 3 hours gonna tow the car to Castle Hill - I'm getting one of those Pulsar Dizzys from Gareth coz my Lucas is doing what Lucas does best - nothing.

OK Mike,
My 1310 is now going like sh!te off a shovel with the 36 chokes in the DHLA45..

I've dropped the 34mm chokes in to Gareth at Mini Spares, so U can grab 'em when you pick your Mini up. Give him the $50 for me- he has promised not to leave town...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Did he ask you for an advice why the bloody hell there's no power going to my coil? Coz he seemed pretty puzzled the last time I spoke to him.

Didn't really- he did say you've got heaps of extra wires in there though...

<edit> it had 8V when cranking, on a cold morning maybe that's all you can expect unless you fit a humungous battery (I use a 550CCA one). Electronic Pulsar dizzy will give a fatter spark- the coil is 1.5 ohm not 3.0 like stock, so can tolerate low crank volts better.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

im a last minute bidder

Snapped a mobile in the last 5 minutes a week ago........its a top new phone

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

Well I had a look at the carb today. Took it all apart, cleaned everything with diesel and reassembled. It seems tip top, just old and slightly dirty. I've got quite a few questions though.
There is minimal or no wear on the jets and tubes, the butterflies are rock solid and the screws are tight (well they were before I took them off without relieving the pressure on the butterflies so skimmed the ends of them and gonna have to buy 4 new ones tommorow). Should I still run a kit through?

I swaped the 30 chokes for the 34's. The jets already in there seem very big for a 30 choke yet are very close to what Kevin recomended with the 34's. Currently the mains are 145, airs are 180, Idles are 55. The tubes are #6, the pump jet is 50 (way too big for me?) the float screw is 225 and the float needle is #1.

2) Since this is so close to Des Hamill's recomendations and uni books are getting more expensive every year, will there be a significant difference in using the existing jets vs getting new 150 mains, 170 airs and 50 idles?

3) Currently there's a small Ramflow filter in there - how bad are they really? what ram tube setup could I use that will fit in?

4) Manifolds - The manifold has no provision for studs just holes. Should I just use normal high tensile bolts?
5) And finaly here's a link to the carb I won, am I missing anything to fit it to a mini (ignore the escort manifold)? Why do people get a metal bar across the carb?

http://i10.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/33/74/07_1.JPG
http://i24.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/34/46/6f_1.JPG
http://i20.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/34/58/a8_1_b.JPG
http://i2.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/35/c8/68_1.JPG

Run with the 145 mains and 180 airs, that's what I had in my 45 Dellorto when it was on my Lynx manifold (which you have now).

55 Idle jet should be OK. Mine is a 50- should be too lean but isn't.

Try the pump jets as is, not sure what are in mine. You do need big pump jets for a siamese port motor.

<edit> you can use Unbrako cap screws like I do. Although people say always fit the O-ring mount kit under the carb it will run OK with a gasket instead. Mine does.. But if it was a Weber I'd buy the kit.
The Ramflo is OK, but if you keep that manifold you could fit anything, even a K & N. Plenty of room...

<edit 2> The metal bar across the top is part of most linkage kits for Weber/Dellorto. Lynx make a kit, probably Redline do too. You can live without it but it makes the throttle motion better than putting the cable straight onto the carb.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool thanks alot. It was clean and ready to go on today but then I realised that the manifold is thicker at the base (where it sits on the head) than my existing extractors so if I tighten the manifold the middle exhaust pipe remains loose. Due to my annoying habbit of doing all my work at night, I couldnt grind any metal of the base so gonna do it tommorow morning and then booyaaa.

I'm still thinking of a good way of attaching the accel line might just go to the carb place in Burwood for the 4th time in as many days and buy the mounting kit.

Funny, when I took the rubber extension hose of the metal fuel line fuel started pouring everywhere. I know that the level of the tanks is higher than the fuel line and liquid equalises levels but i thought that with the innactive elec. fuel pump in the middle it wont happen.