arg dang my housekeeping side wrapped them all up nice with newspaper boxed and under the pool table for storage till i gets the car running

no wozzers ill be glad to help, will take some detailed shots within a coupla days

btw dont think the stud plate was welded onto the disc (rotor?), looks like bolted on

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I was in a Generous mood tonight. and lucky for you, i still am so am going to post some pictures up

Backing plate
the three holes in the middle are for the three existing bolts on your car
the two outer holes are for the caliper bracket



Disc: made of two sections: Disc body, and aluminium spacing plate
the disc itself has had a redrill (four holes to fit a mini) and studs have been put through these four holes.
the stud heads have been welded onto the disk body. (see weld marks)

the aluminium plate is then put on top, no signs of fixation, maybe just glue









First goes on the backing plate
then the disc
then the caliper bracket overhead together with the caliper+pads

Hope this helps

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Nice work Duc! I too have been doing alot of brake conversion work, but converting to plain cooper S 7.5inch brakes. Nothing as special as camira brakes! Looks good! You'll have to take me for a ride!

See you tommorrow at Gannons?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

do these brakes use drum flanges and cvs?


i thought most camira conversions used disc brake flanges and cvs.

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72 Clubbie - Current project - Vauxhall C20XE 2000cc 16v 150hp.
78 Clubbie - Future project.

sorry mate i dont know my braking terminology too well, i know flanges are things that have a rim and a shaft, and cv's are constant velocity things for shaft to wheel, but unless you give me a picture and point it out i dont know

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they look alot like drum flanges to me

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Potato

Yes..Dook's setup is using his existing drum setup. You can get camira's to work with either, you need a special adaptor plate made up to work with the disc flange..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Duc,
Bad idea, welding anything to disc rotors- they are cast iron, not steel...

And, the studs are heat treated for strength, another reason not to weld them.

Accident waiting to happen.....

I'd find another method...!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Aren't those studs just a press fit anyway? why would you need to weld them there like they have?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

sounds like the disc is on the inside of the drive flange?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks for the heads up doc, ill look into it. trev isnt running anyway, and i dont expect him to for the next coupla months and the discs arent goin on anytime soon if he does.

if you have a look at the pics, the aluminium plate seems like it gives a good tight fit, and even if you do up the nuts tightly, they will still hold the wheel on right coz the studs have heads on the other side... if you know what im getting at: the compression of nut, wheel, plate, disc, and stud will act just like a bolt and nut, so the weld on the studs arent the only things holding the studs to the disc

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Why can't you use a standard drive flange, with the same S studs you have, put the disc on the outside of the drive flange. Same as the Honda setup.Then there's no dodgy welding, which WILL crack the first time the disc gets hot.
Note- your studs are not a press fit in the drive flange now, like they should be.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

looking ok i guess.. my mate has finished mine now.. bolted one side up yesterday, just need to drill out the caliper cradle holes a little for the bolts for the other side, but yeah.. he welded up all the holes in the rotor, pressed the studs in, machined up spacers with recessed ends so the S flange fits nice and snug in the end of the spacer...

rotors, $24 each, calipers $40 , new longer wheels studs $40

very cheap conversion

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GTi Turbo'd mini, abused daily

well.. you can weld cast iron, but like suggested.... ht bolts? the heat from the weld may weaken the heads, just enough tho.
If he used drum driving flanges, then he would have had to machine off the raised mounts for the studs. then you installed longer threaded studs?
so you have decreased the strength of the flanges and moved the center of the wheel away 15-20 mm. You also by using a spacer removed the small hub that the wheel should mount to. Pressed wheel rims actually do located on these hubs so that the wheel is not supported by just the studs. Good mag wheels should also have this.
Your brake disc locates with the studs.... i dunno, probably ok but considering the forces involved you have not got your stud in shear but now in bending...
brake hard often, whats to stop your studs from bending? then fatiguing.. then FRACTURE
I don't like your chances of getting them engineered.

don't cut corners on braking.

I am doing the same conversion on my car,
you need 's' flanges and cv's

sorry dude

thanks for the concern, to be honest, im not too bothered, just will pay more attention when getting them put on (will ask right people, im not a shortcutter). they were for a good price from a mate, not intending to return them, will make good use of them thanks chaps

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