I was alive and kicking back in the `60s and lusting after Cooper S's (which were hard to get).

I eventually owned a MK1 S, which was wet.

AFAIK, all the Oz Cooper S's- MK1 & 2, were hydro, as they were released well after the UK went from dry to wet on 1275S. So was the Clubman GT.

OTOH- the Cooper 997 and 998 were dry only, in Australia.

I never saw a new Oz 1275S on dry suspension....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hay Dr Not towards my situation but to MINI first enquirie what should he do.
I think he will be a Daily Drive (sorry correct me if Im incorrect)
But I think he should out Comp Bumper stops alaround and ajust CORRECTLY the hydro only and ensure all brakes are excellent

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I'd do the front shocks first, then the comp rear bumpstops. Don't make the shocks too stiff- stock Mini ones, Monroes or Pedders or similar are fine. KYB gas are OK too. You don't need or want adjustables...

Don't be tempted to fit the comp hydro bumpstops to the front, unless you want rally ride height, positive camber and understeer. I tried them, and removed them immediately. Stock front ones are fine. Check the front rebound rubbers too (under top arms)- 68Delux had one missing...

I set ride height (10" wheels) to 2-3 fingers between front tyre and wheelarch.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I will definitely get the rear bump stops there not too expensive, I'll have to ask around about the shocks to see whats the best bet, in regards to brakes i'm leaning towards the honda setup.

Rear bumpstop kit C-AJJ3313 costs around $72 at Karcraft.

To mount the shocks you will need the brackets. Rip some off a Clubbie at yer friendly wreckers..

The lower shock mount is a bit tricky on a hydro. You either need to drill the top arm out to 3/8" (it's bloody hard material) or use M8x100 Unbrako cap screws (which are high tensile), and sleeve the shock bush down to 8.0mm. I did this on mine 8 or 9 years ago, no problems yet..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah, I'd jack it up and make sure your bump stop even exists back there to begin with! There was nothing but a wedge of 36yr old rubber on the right rear arm!

Doc's the man to talk to about wet girls

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

might already have a source for some brackets, as I said i'm putting a 1310 in it and I want to do the brakes at the same time, will it handle the power increase alright for a while or is it something I should do as well.

Brakes are more important than shocks etc.
Main benefit of shocks is less pitching fore & aft, and they help restore damping lost over the last 30+ years.
Rear bumpstops stop rearward pitch under acceleration, they help turn-in too by increasing the rear `spring' rate.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I remember reading in Parnell's book (I think) that the UK MK1 S variants were in both susp. types. And I think I also read a few review articles from the 60s where the dry was listed as an option. But the reviews then seem to get an awful lot of details wrong and obviously it all only applies to the UK variants.

Yes the early MK1 UK S's were dry. All 1071s, and early 1275s.
My friend up in Newcastle has one. The change was in 1964, before 1275S production started in Australia.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

On my hot 1330 Hydro Deluxe I fitted stock front shockies, and a rear sway bard from K-Mac. It kicked ass. Smooth as silk and would handle like it was on rails.

Still on the topic of Cooper S suspension, didn't the hydro ones have larger bags on them? From memory a problem with racing/rallying hydro cars is if you hit a big bump, displace the fluid and hit another big bump real quick, it can do damage as the fluid had all been displaced. Hence bigger bags and more fluid.

I've got LIP shocks to go on the front of mine, just need to buy a thread cleaner/tap for the top mount brackets as the holes are filled with underbody sealer! I've *got* to tie the back down (ie lower it) as I get way too much sideways action at the moment. Unfortunately the front sits very low so if I just let fluid out it will sit on the bump stops, and it is very hard to drive in the wet on the bumpstops, but goes hard in the dry

If it's sitting real high at the back, low at front, your helper springs may be stretched. They are there to pull the back down, which forces the front up..

Cooper S bags are stiffer- as the rubber in top of bag is thicker. See my thread on hydro bags, how to check the difference between S and the stockers with 30 years of crud on 'em.. .

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

According to Trickey you could get stiffer helper springs. I asked my parts supplier and he laughed. NLA.....

Anto.

Yeh there were 2 types, early and late. But any spring maker could do you some new ones, if you give a sample and tell them what you want.

ping kazjim, he must have boxes of helper springs..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.