When I put a multimeter on a live 12V wire in my interior cabin (eg: interior light) I get a pulsing current, flicking from 10V to 12.5V.......like a heartbeat. It doesn't seem to make any difference to the lights, or whatever the wire is powering, but all live 12V wires seem to be doing this.

What the??

I was thinking coil....am I on the right track?

not your fuel pump is it?

nup, it's mechanical

Is it happening with the key on or off?
Could be the starter solenoid
Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

Anton, I had this.. its the Voltage stabilizer in the back of the dash (Is it in the same Place on aClubbie ?)

Mine was doing the same thing as yours (even weirder things happen when you have a Turbo timer . . . . . )

Swapped mine for a Solid-state one (made by ausmini member WomBat)

Never had a trouble since !

Also, my fuel guage is accurate and Rock-Solid Now !!!

Good luck
J

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Yep, the V `stabiliser' uses 1950 technology- it's just a bimetal strip and a set of 25 year old contacts.
Although the interior light is 12V and the gauges 10V, as this thing switches it can vary the load and affect things like lights.
I also got a solid state one off Wombat, it fixed my mysterious fuel level/speed problem too.

The wiring in a Mini is really a bit marginal.... when my blinkers are on, the heater fan (bilge blower... ) varies in pitch.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

aaahhhhhhh....thanks guys!!!!

That will also explain why:

1. Extra gauges mounted in dash 'flick about' and don't sit firm on a reading

2. Tacho jumps around



How do you fit a new stabiliser? Pull out, plug in?

What was so special about the S type volt regs?
Was it just the shape of them or what?

I seem to think they were hard to get if burnt out?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

To replace with the same type in a clubbie -yeah, pull the dash out (better access) and gently lever the old stabiliser out (sometimes gentle persuasion with a small screwdriver is needed). It's just three metal flat connectors that fit tight into their female equivalents.

Same in theory with the electronic version from Wombat ($15 ea last time I got one), but you need to doublecheck how the wiring goes - he sends them with instruction leaflet. I blew one the first time, so had to go back for another one!

My `68 S had the same old boxy one as all the Minis before it and most Oz ones since.

I run one of Wombat's electronic ones in each car, no probs at all.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.