Hi all i think my water pump may be on its way out there seem to be a bit of a rattleing sound in that area and the temp goes up when it idles for a bit..


any symptoms to look out for would be appreciated

and is it a bugger to change??

Cheers

Gadget

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Usual 1st symptom is water loss, dripping down the engine. The seal goes first, then the water can get into the bearings..

It may actually be the alternator bearings, they make more noise than pumps do.
Get a big screwdriver, stick the business end againstst the pump body & the other against yer ear, with motor idling.. repeat exercise at each end of alternator. WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN!

re the overheating- is fan belt tight?

Pump is not hard to change- you just need to pull the fan & radiator. You also need a bypass hose. use 1/2" heater hose (like Cooper S first did) not those convoluted rubber POS ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That explains alot for me.

First water loss ... and yep it was the water pump ..... after a little while - you guessed it, bearings! Makes perfect sense.

Thanks for clearing that up for me Doctor. I feel much better now.

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Simon - stick your head under the front of the car and look up at the underside of your water pump. If the seal is shitters, you will see seeping from the hole on the underside of the water pump nose.

New ones are cheap enough (powermax ones are 5 bucks at Supercrap - if you can find them!!!) and they are gooders. Had one in there for 4 years now and just starting to seep a little.

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

thanks for that Doc, Brown Clubbie and Rob

seems the water pump is screaming at me when i do the screwdriver stethescope thing

looked at the Karcraft site
could some one explain if there is any benefits in the "high flow" pump over the "mini impeller" Pump and will the "high flow fit into a 1098 motor without any problems.

Cheers

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I think most people go hi flow regardless of their engine. The standard pumps are barely adequate in summer, and as we are at that end of the year.....well I would.

Basically just a slightly different and slightly less inadequate design

They have a deeper plastic impeller which pumps the water around a little better. The normal ones just stir it around when idling.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

What sort of rattling sound. it may well not be the water pump but your timing chain slapping about. Just an idea.

Cheers

Aaron

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Water pumps don't rattle, when bearings are worn they rumble...

If not leaking, I'd suspect the timing chain as Aaron said. These A series (except A+) normally don't have any tensioner. I don't count the 2 rubber rings they put in early ones as they go hard before chain is worn out.

With engine running, put a long screwdriver down onto the timing cover from top, and do the stethoscope trick with your ear as said above. If it's the chain it will sound like a bucket if bolts.

New chains are cheap. And these days, nasty.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi,
Look on eBay for competitive prices for water pumps both hi-flow and Normal! we are minisport1275 but look around for yourself! might save yourself some $$$....
EBay mini stores:
http://cars.stores.ebay.com.au/Car-Part ... 2072QQtZlw
See for yourself,

Ps. more products to go on monday/tuesday for minisport1275.

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Andrew@Minisport, South Australia
Ph: 08-8177-1275
Skype: minisport.au

www.minisport.com.au
Minisport for all your mini parts