You're copying that idea from the French
http://edition.cnn.com/2005/WORLD/europe/11/07/france.riots/index.html

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

Mind you, if you drove Citroens / Peugots / Renaults you'd be seething with rage & want to burn them too!

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

Noooo-Thats not a good idea!!!!
Just think about the future....
What are your kids,kids going to drive for a bit of fun in the future

_________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Im with ya there Stuwey. I had an 998cc LS that i bought in january this year and have spent over $5500 to get it to a pretty good and reasonable condition yet everytime i drove it something else ****ed up on me. Starter motors, radiator, water pump, heater, distributor, battery and now paint starting to peel! ARGH and today i sold it for only $2500.. thats a $3000 loss in 6 months!! Sorry to hijack this thread mate but ive never been an avid contributor to ausmini, but have read all posts daily for a long time and i feel your pain dude. However its over for me now and im sure the new owners have picked up now wat is a pretty good condition, very orignal LS for dam cheap. I was just getting sick of it all... Good luck with it all. I dont have no mini no more (a 2000 Liberty now ) but i will still read daily of the pain and joy mini drivers go through!! [again im sorry for hijacking your thread]

Beanme-I know that LS-The guy you brought it from lived in Rockingham.
That LS orginally came from Sydney,and had been sitting around for years with little use.
Sorry to see you have not enjoyed the Mini experience
PS Liberty parts are expensive,hope you have better luck......

_________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

Okay....

The temp gauge - have previously had an AutoMeter electric gauge in there (with its own sender), and it read... surprise, surprise, hot. About 200+. Not cool, as this makes it a difficult problem, not just a gauge fix, and the top hose feels damn hot anyways. When the gauge says Normal, i can still (just) hold onto the top hose. Trust me, the gauges all work fine.

Dyno specs - I have the dyno chart here infront of me, and it has the air/fuel ratio on the scale. It was WAY high at 15.(Lean) before it was tuned, and it now sits at about 9, just about perfect. I trust this dyno, as this man has played with webers and Minis for years. I know of many hottie old cars, all weber-fed, that use him and his dyno regularly. Most of the SA field of historic Nb and Nc racers for a start.

Exhaust - Yeah, i've had enough for now, i need to learn how to MIG weld! Screw these guys that charge like a bull at a gate, but achieve nothing. It already has a flexi joint, but all the flexing is happening in the pipes. It really needs that gearbox mount. It would help if the threads were still in the casing, as the first Zaust shop decided a coarse metric bolt would look much better in that hole. (Thanks again, Marky )

Throttle - I've had the pedal out, the cable out at least three times, and all the linkages to the weber in and out just as many. I have now had 4 different links to the weber, but no joy. I think i'll play with this one some more and see how i go.

But, for now, i'll leave it all a while. I have blown about $6000 in almost four months on this F**kin car, two motor rebuilds, two radiators, three sets of extractors, two full exhausts and i've had enough. I have a very large show the car has just gotta attend at the end of the month, so i might try and have it all sweet by then. But my bank account needs some rest!

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

mig welding is the easiest to learn it cant be that hard i learned

then ya can do it real cheap

_________________
Current Ride : Toyota Trueno AE86

mini parts for sale http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42247

AAA exhausts on deacon avenue at richmond are great.....do an excellent job, for bugger all money.......give them a go....

_________________
1962 Morris 850.....with a 1310

1998 Toyota starlet.....161.1hp atw

Yeah, my mates with their drag car toranas and coondores all go there. I had just seen some very nice work come from Exhaust-Tech and D&Ts, so i kinda expected the same treatment. I guess my car isn't on their priority list, as it hasn't got over 400bhp, or over $35,000 spent.

I don't care if my car is the cheapest one in the workshop, i still want the same quality job done on my car, too. I pay the same amount as anyone else.

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Midas on Main North Rd at Nailsworth did a good job for me on an exhaust system for the Rover and it was quite reasonable cost wise. When I needed something on it changing a few weeks later they did it for next to nothing.

My brother took his C'mdore to D&T for a new s/s system to be fitted and paid almost $3,000 for it....

We all go through bad times with Mini ownership, but rest assured it happens to other makes as well ....

_________________
Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Stuwey

How many engine steady's are fitted to your car, it may need extra engine steady to stop it moving about to much, i have seen many later models with rod change need the bottom steady as well as the standard 2 top ones and only after this could they keep an exhaust on the car, just a thought
Jon

_________________
Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Yeah, i have one of those lower engine steadies here at home, i need some bushes for it before i can put it on, though. I want to get the collector(s) welded together, then bracketed to the gearbox. Then the flexi can do its job properly.

However, i did actually fix my sticky throttle tonight. I disused the weber linkage, and went back to the way it was setup before, with another new inner cable. (the outer was replaced on saturday) This inner was a bicycle brake cable, so i had about 2 metres to play with. I bent up a new bracket for the return spring, It pulls a bit straighter down on the return spring than the previous one, and bent the acc pedal back to its proper shape. This was my main problem.

How does the top half of the pedal bent to the right The inner of the cable was rubbing on the firewall, not going straight through the hole. Not easily found, but all the more frustrating as this seems so simple.

But... I still have exhaust and heating issues. Does anyone think my little Mini water pump just ain't up to the job? Its a new (1 year old?) hi-volume pump, but now i also have a much larger rad. By taking the baffle out the side tank, i effectively halved its length, but doubled its height. Might this be the problem now? Sounds like another $200 for an electric water pump.

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Electric water pumps flow the same amount of water reagardless of engine speed.
Great for reducing parasitic HP loss, and will still keep the engine cool crawling in traffic.
They never fix overheating problems but

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

Stewey,

Similar cooling issues when mine was first fired up, but all sorted now.

1. Hi Flow pump
2. The larger Morris 1100S rad, with top and bottom tanks stripped off and rebuild with 3-core. [done by truck radiator place so the cores are huge LOL]
3. Morris 1100S expansion tank
4. Heater core moved to front core as accillary Rad.

It now sits on 87c all day long.
Hope it helps
Cheers Dat

What if you've doubled the size of the rad, and the stockie (altough hi-vol) one just cant move that much water?

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.