Heyas,

My brake pedals been steadily decreasing in pressure over the last few months to the point where I've got hardly any 'space' between the pedal and the floor when I have to brake a bit heavy.

First thing we checked were the adjusters on the wheels and they seem to be ok except for the passenger side front which is apparently stuffed. The handbrake engaged completely at three clicks.

I've been told my brake master cylinder is the culprit.

I vaguely remember going down to repco to pickup a clutch master cylinder kit a few years ago which contained all the rubbers and rings in a neat little plastic package. Is there one available for the brake master cylinder?

I've got a dual circuit master cylinder in a '78 moke. Failing repco, is a kit available from somewhere like nthern mini parts (i'm heading out that way tommorow)?

Cheers,

Shard

I got my dual circut master reconditioned at a brake place in sydney for $50 all up. I think the kit they used was around $25-30. Any brake place will be able to do it. I would also check your rear wheel cylinders as that was the reason for my bad pedal, master was fine in the end

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Hm might check out a brake place then, they tend to be a little less costly then the mini joints.

Thanks.

Shard

hey shard...you might be interested in this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 33183&rd=1

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play 3d car games for free

hey shard mate youre a new member
do ya mind tellin us abitta bout yourself in the "introduce yourself" thread

thats a great lookin moke there, its the first profile pic of a moke ive seen round here

maybe you could explain your name too

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

I had the same problem with rear wheel cylinders and bleeding a while back. When the seals get worn they can suck air in as the brake pedal goes up, before they get an obvious leak.
If in doubt, change the cylinders- they are not a lot dearer than kits anyway.

If fitting Honda (or other) discs to the front it's a good idea to fit S rear wheel cylinders (5/8")

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thommo09: Thanks for the heads up, unfortunately that looks like it's a single circuit master cylinder, mines got the two little pipes coming out of it ala the dual circuit model.

68matic: Will do, my moke is my pride and joy. It's also the biggest source of headache in my life heh.

Drmini: Any idea how much cylinders go for? At the moment I've just got drums all round. I'm still not mechanically minded enough to begin thinking about a honda disc conversion, however i'd definately love to pursue this option.

Shard

S ones are $23.16 ea
std Mini (3/4") are $19.92 ea
Karcraft's prices.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I guess given that i've got drums all round I'd be going the standard cylinders yeah?

Shard

If you're gonna fit discs in the future, I'd fit the 5/8" rears, otherwise use the stock 3/4".

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.