Okay so i'm trying to get the Mini1000 series running with a couple of other peoples help.

Basically, its a racing category (which race on supersprint days) for small bore minis.
There are a few regulations and rules, of which i know that
CAMSHAFT - free choice
HEAD - may be ported but no welding. valves must be stock.
BRAKES - stock drums. casing may be drilled for ventilation - no alloy.
TYRES - Falken tyres ONLY
BODY - may be stripped, but no drilling of body parts for further lightening.
ENGINE - 998 or 1100.

Im unsure of things like gearbox, idlers, fuel, carburetion, exhaust, and other things.
Maybe Steve can fill us in on this?

The whole idea of Mini1000 was to have a category of racing where all cars are 'close'.
By this, it means that at least a few cars will all come into the corner at the same time roughly and make for a very adrenaline high, fun time out on the track, while putting some PROPER times down.

So, we need i think Steve said 15 people that enter the race.

Put your name down if you'd be up for this.

I'll get more details n shizzle as they come, but personally i reckon the regulations are a bit too stringent to get 15 people out there.
But we'll see... this is why im posting this!
And please - no farken people from interstate post in here - i know how tempting it may be, but just dont

Some of those rules seem to be a bit detrimental to the whole idea of racing..

I mean..Falkens? sure they are cheap, but they are crap!..but i can handle that, but drums all round is a stupid idea for a track car...IMO

Stock valves..so can you run a Cooper 295 head on a small bore? and who is going to know what size valves are being run?

I'm not even in SA so i've got no real input for it, but those things, just seem detrimental to me...

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I'd be in! If I was in SA. lol

Drums... yer, but nar. Cheap but, nar!

Head rules is silly, what about 1275 heads?

Should either be 1100 or 998, not both.

Just my opinion.

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Must have 1.5" SU, and NO COOPER PART Nos on the heads.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Hi beanie here i have another view on this whole thing what about people who have cars that fall outside the catagory i think 998 or 1100 doesn't matter no biggie falken tyres or equilivent great but could people whose cars dont quite fit the regs but still want to go round and round with other cars still be included...
what about people who want to take a car like there rover on the track are the (998A+)
can we include them some how just a thought

.................... BEANIE....................

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Yewp my thoughts exactly.
In the home town we get these minis with DISC BRAKES.
"Oooooooh" say all the lasses.
"Aye" say the owners.
It helps me stop better, it does.

Why should the disc brake factor mean we cant be out there with them, just not in their category, but still being with the minis and having a proper time

i would be up for it but dont know if the car will be

cheers

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pfft, pack of girls, keep them on drums, and 998's A series only, 12G202 heads

great idea

iam up for that


depending on the regs

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well i think the idea behind drums falkens and head modification was to keep the costs right down, but i'm already out as my race 1100 has bigger valves and i run yokohamas


i think it needs to include 1100s, as theres prolly not enough 998's running about these days...

Steve was trying to get the idea off the ground but from what I understand one of the other Mini places started looking at what they could build within the rules and that would have blown the doors off us all. Except maybe Steve and he was more into the spirit of it than the other guy who would be able to say my Mini is the best therefore buy stuff from me cos it's racetrack proven. Win on Sunday, sell on Monday.

I have looked at the regs (I've got a copy here somewhere) and money will win based on those rules. I've done a lot of sailing in my time and I prefered the strict one design rule classes where the skill of the sailor counts, not the size of his wallet. Same with cars. Everyone uses the same tyres. So what if they are cheap crap. Cheap is good cos more people can afford them and therefore more people can afford to compete and crap doesn't matter cos everyone has crap.

How do you check valve sizes ? Well, I guess we can't keep taking heads off after every race but I'm sure there would be some way of doing it. If someone is going to cheat they will cheat. Athletes use steroids, horses get electric prods, etc. With money you could have someone build a hidden NOS system. Only way you'd tell would be a puff of black smoke and the guy just pulled away a bit quicker thn you expected. Lightened flywheel. Looks the same from the outside. I don't know how these things work. The only scruteneering I've seen is pretty basic and along the lines of Do you have an approved helmet ? Are the seatbelts approved ? Are the headlights top winning 3 at the end of the season get stripped down for confirmation that everything's kosher. Pay a mechanic to do it. Say he wants $1000 to pull down and rebuild the 3 engines. If the owners want new bits put back in or something fixed it's their cost but the strip, check and rebuild would come out of the cost of entering the seies and getting your engine stripped,etc by a professoinal mechanic could be regarded as part of the prize. Maybe $1000 is way below the mark, I don't know. Maybe those that enter have to commit to at least getting the engine out of the car and putting it back in.....I know that saves quite a bit of cash.

I'm very keen on the basic idea but I would like to see very strict rules that keep costd down so a student with a part time job can go racing. I work, get a reasonable pay, but I wouldn't race against Minisport or Brickworx or Minitech or Royal Park or Blair Athol not becasue they are all better drivers than me or don' weigh nearly 120 kgs like me but because they have access to parts at a price that if allowed will never let me near them. So why bother. I have never competed in anything unless I felt I had a chance of winning....I haven't won much but I'm not there just to make up the numbers.

Mini1000 Racing, bring it on but with strict rules. One rule I remember said they were based on the 998 bock but were allowed a standard oversize bore. Can't remember what that actually was but the point is the guys with the money will bet the allowed oversize engine. Everything else being equal I will not beat him cos his engine is bigger than mine and I can't afford a rebore and new pistons and rings. And so on.

OK, maybe what I've said, thought about, come up with or whatever is rubbish. I'm fine with that as long as you tell me how to make it work, not why it won't work. I would start from scratch and say Rule Number 1. Car must be standard 998cc saloon. (Hmmm, what's standard ??) That will raise a few questions (round nose or sqare front, 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" carby ? Manual or automatic? 3 synchro box or 4 synchro ?) but they will bring answers. Get agreement and move on to the next question. I want affordable, LOW cost racing that means I have a chance without special parts or special machining. Anyone read Des Hamill's book on SU carbs ? Drive your car to the race track and in 10 minutes convert it to a racing carby. Change it back for the drive home.

I'm for it as long as it's CHEAP !!! (Oh yes, and safe)

smithy

I can see a problem with saying standard 998cc only, especially after a few rebuilds your going to struggle to keep them standard bore. An oversized engine isn't really going to change the power output greatly..

Why would it's matter whether it's a clubby auto or whatever, clubby's are a little slower by virtue of the worse aerodynamics afforded by the front, so if people want to run them, who cares? if someone wants to run an auto again who cares..3 or 4 synchro again who cares, run what you have, the idea is to get people to race. 1.25" is crazy on a race car 998 or not...you can pickup 1.5" SU's for $50 so cost is not the issue there..

Fact is if you want numbers and 15 cars is alot of mini's to get to participate, especially for SA then your going to struggle to find relatively stock 40yo cars..most have been modified in some way, disqualifying them because of these strict rules. Now i'm all for stict rules, but maybe you should just make it competitive by power output?

Dyno the dam things and get a relative field level...

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what if the 998 came with stock discs?

it would be better if there were classes within the Mini1000.... ie

Mini1000 (a) Disc chaps
Mini1000 (b) Drum Chaps

it's still possible for a drum brake mini to beat a disc braked example...

it would show the drivers skill...

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I'll be in that for sure. I originally picked a 998 over other cars because I heard rumours of this type of competition.

I'm good with the rules as they are. Too strict and we won't get enough people, too loose and everyone who doesn't have the $$ won't enjoy themselves.

Personally, I couldn't give a crap what the restrictions are. I'll no doubt have way less power than anyone else anyway .

I would suggest a handicap system. Winners get weight penalties. Slapping 50kg into 998 is going to slow it down a bit.

And I was thinking of selling the 998... sheesh.

They used to run a series in NSW for these style cars with the Supermini's, there were quite a few built and raced, they had a set of regs for the cars about what you could do to keep it all fair, maybe get in touch with Mini Racing Australia and get a set of there regs for the 998 cars, very few engine mods allowed mostly just safety mods, have a look in the Mini Experience they usually have some info for contact

Jon

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