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 Post subject: clutch split pin leak
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:44 am 
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Location: Mackay, QLD.
Hi to all,

I'm hoping that someone can clarify this for me. I've just had a new 1071 engine built.

I have a small oil leak from the split pin below the clutch.

My mechanic assures me that a small leak there is normal as oil leaks out of the primary gear seal and sprays through holes in the flywheel to lubricate the clutch diaphram, then it leaks out the bottom.

Now the leak is not huge, couple of drops after every drive make it onto my drip tray. As the engine is new though, the mechanic is responsible for any issues so I need to know if this shouldn't be happening so I can get it fixed.

I've spoken to two mini shops and they assure me that I should not have any leaks, anywhere but the mechanic is well known and swears black and blue that everything is okay and not to worry about it. Because I don't understand fully the mechanics of it, I am very worried and also due to some other issues with the mechanic I am quickly loosing faith in his workmanship.

Thanks in advance.

Jacks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:58 am 
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Location: east yorks, england
Yep it will be fine, UNTIL the oil finds it's way onto the clutch plate. Guessing he's not replaced the flywheel oil seal, perfectly possible to do it without replacing the seal. But always worthwhile to make sure this doesn't happen. I would say you've got a couple of months of clutch slip free motoring, before you need to get this sorted. Never known a mini drive for much longer with this oil leak ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:21 am 
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jacks1071 wrote:
My mechanic assures me that a small leak there is normal as oil leaks out of the primary gear seal and sprays through holes in the flywheel to lubricate the clutch diaphram, then it leaks out the bottom.


that's a line if I ever heard one!! he's full of crap and has done a shoddy job - if he screwed up the rear main seal and is telling you that story, I'd sincerely hope it isn't indicative of what he's done inside the motor!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:30 am 
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Location: Mackay, QLD.
Thanks Skssgn,

I share your concern about the inside of the engine believe me. At this point in time the only saving grace is that the engine is very strong and doesn't vibrate. It hasn't got hardly any kms on it though. I've done about 500 and the mechanic claims he did 2000 running it in although I suspect that was probably more like 500.

Here is part 2, I bought a brand new light weight competition fly wheel to go onto the engine when it was built.

When the mechanic was running the engine in, he decided the cam we fitted was too big and he'd go to a smaller cam.

When he pulled the engine out he found about a thimble of oil in the clutch area. On the advice of a guy called Fred Sayers he drilled 3x holes in the flywheel which he says were to let that oil out from behind the flywheel and through to the clutch diaphram.

I'm worried about this as the flywheel did not go into a shop to be re-balanced after his holes were drilled. I'm also a little worried that this very expensive new part has been ruined by these holes. The mechanic tells me that the standard flywheel has holes, and that the competition one doesn't and that by putting the holes into it is not going to cause any problems.

He is addimant that he has done the right thing. I'm very worried and appreciate all the advice I can get.

Thanks,


Jacks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:37 am 
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jacks1071 wrote:
When he pulled the engine out he found about a thimble of oil in the clutch area. On the advice of a guy called Fred Sayers he drilled 3x holes in the flywheel which he says were to let that oil out from behind the flywheel and through to the clutch diaphram.

I'm worried about this as the flywheel did not go into a shop to be re-balanced after his holes were drilled. I'm also a little worried that this very expensive new part has been ruined by these holes. The mechanic tells me that the standard flywheel has holes, and that the competition one doesn't and that by putting the holes into it is not going to cause any problems.


worried????? fcuking petrified I'd be!!

standard flywheel has holes, sure, just for the backing plate to go through, and I'm guessing yours already had those - what if he put the holes on a stress point and it happens to crack, shear and come up between your legs?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:48 am 
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Location: Mackay, QLD.
I'm seriously considering having the engine pulled down and checked by someone who is a real expert.

This is going to be very hard for me, I've put 45k worth of parts and labour into a vehicle that was in pretty good condition to start with. I however don't want to risk blowing up what I've got.

Now I get the vehicle from the mechanic after 9 months, and I've got lots of poor workmanship, a horrible paint job and finish, and already things breaking and leaking.

I'm missing a lot of new parts that I supplied and am

A. Worried that not all my brand new engine parts made it into the engine.
B. More things are done wrong.

The vehicle was purpose built for Targa, so far I've done 500km and already had 3x things go wrong that would have DNF'ed me.

I've cancelled my Targa preperations for 2006 and am going to wait another year so I can sort the car out. Very disappointing though.

Who is the best mini engine person in the business?

Thanks,


Jacks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:55 am 
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check your Private Messages

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 Post subject: get help...
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 9:51 am 
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skssgn wrote:
check your Private Messages


I can only imagine what Simon is saying in the PM :oops: ....

Some serious allegations here :(

However, if what you say is true then you appear to have been the victim of impropriety and poor workmanship....

You need to take your engine to an acknowledged expert (and therein lies the rub because they all have had a problem or two over the years...its the nature of the game...the good ones recognise straight away something is wrong and rectify it....)

Being careful here...there are several acknowledged experts up your way...

At least one "Miniman" up your way has competed in Targa and he may be someone you could seek advice from...Similarly, the Mini Owners club of QLD might be another avenue.

Whatever happens, you will probably end up in court seeking recompense for an independant engine strip and rebuild including all new seals and gaskets and a balance and assessment of that flywheel mod followed by a "tune-up".

At least this time you can ask to see and have and recorded the exact parts used within the engine and what is new/what is old.

Good Luck!!!

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Last edited by 9YaTaH on Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
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Location: Brisbane
I replied to your PM and I know who built this engine.

Firstly any engine shouldn't leak oil, if it does it is unroadworthy (and CAMS unroadworthy too)
Secondly he's saying it's normal because it is a pain to rectify.
Thirdly "When he pulled the engine out he found about a thimble of oil in the clutch area. On the advice of a guy called Fred Sayers he drilled 3x holes in the flywheel which he says were to let that oil out from behind the flywheel and through to the clutch diaphram."
CRAP CRAP CRAP!!!!! Fred is a very good friend of mine and this is crap. Fred is in the top five of Mini engine builders in Australia. No doubt.
Take it to Fred for his opinion if you like. He lives in Wavell Heights, look in the phone book.
Fourthly. Take this knob to court to get it fixed.


Last edited by TK on Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:03 pm 
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I totally agree with whats being said, a mini does not have oil in the clutch/bellhousing and if it does there is a problem with either the primary gear seal or bushes and from what you have said with the money you have spent it should be right. Whom ever the builder is he does not know what he is talking about at all and needs to be exposed for the shonk he is, people like this give decent honest mechanics a bad name

Jon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 4:47 pm 
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sheeet. and it has a 1071 crank in it too?

department of fair trading, ACCC, current afair, hit him with the lot!

the number of times that my brother and some of our friends have been burnt by bad engine builders has made me very wary of an engine built by anyone other than myself.

hope it works out for

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:05 pm 
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mickmini wrote:
sheeet. and it has a 1071 crank in it too?

department of fair trading, ACCC, current afair, hit him with the lot!

the number of times that my brother and some of our friends have been burnt by bad engine builders has made me very wary of an engine built by anyone other than myself.

hope it works out for


Yes its got a genuine 1071 brand new crank, we found in a clearance list for an old mini shop in USA.

I spoke to Fred Sayers today and he tells me its normal to loose a drop of oil from that split pin in a high performance engine as long as its not loosing much ie. only a drop then everything should be in order.

Fred recommends upgrading the breather pipes to 20mm to allow the engine to breate better which will reduce the crankcase pressure to also help minimise the leak in that area.

Guys I am getting so much conflicting advice, I don't know who to listen to. Maybe I should just drive it - if the clutch starts slipping I know it hasn't been done right.

Thanks,

Jacks.


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 Post subject: a drop....
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 6:13 pm 
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jacks1071 wrote:
mickmini wrote:
sheeet. and it has a 1071 crank in it too?

department of fair trading, ACCC, current afair, hit him with the lot!

the number of times that my brother and some of our friends have been burnt by bad engine builders has made me very wary of an engine built by anyone other than myself.

hope it works out for


Yes its got a genuine 1071 brand new crank, we found in a clearance list for an old mini shop in USA.

I spoke to Fred Sayers today and he tells me its normal to loose a drop of oil from that split pin in a high performance engine as long as its not loosing much ie. only a drop then everything should be in order.

Fred recommends upgrading the breather pipes to 20mm to allow the engine to breate better which will reduce the crankcase pressure to also help minimise the leak in that area.

Guys I am getting so much conflicting advice, I don't know who to listen to. Maybe I should just drive it - if the clutch starts slipping I know it hasn't been done right.

Thanks,

Jacks.


No conflict here AFAIK....if the seal is leaking heaps....it either has not been replaced during rebuild or has been stuffed during rebuild....OR it has been stuffed during rebuild :!:

Listen to Fred....a drop....if you have more than that....well hello :?

From what you have told us, whoever did the work has a case to answer....you have to confront the person with your concerns...THE BEST thing you could do is get expert help and ask someone to accompany you.

Good Luck (again :roll: )

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 Post subject: Re: a drop....
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 6:41 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:

Listen to Fred....a drop....if you have more than that....well hello :?

From what you have told us, whoever did the work has a case to answer....you have to confront the person with your concerns...THE BEST thing you could do is get expert help and ask someone to accompany you.


Initially it was a lot as two engine breathers were plumbed into the oil catch tank, and the tank hello had no breather on it. Oil was pissing out of it.

I've removed one of the breathers from the catch tank and its reduced to a drop.

I also had oil leaking from the timing chain cover which also appears to have stopped.

Currently the split pin is always wet, and I get a drop or two every 2nd time the car goes out.

Does this sound acceptable?


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 Post subject: Re: a drop....
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 6:52 pm 
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jacks1071 wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:

Listen to Fred....a drop....if you have more than that....well hello :?

From what you have told us, whoever did the work has a case to answer....you have to confront the person with your concerns...THE BEST thing you could do is get expert help and ask someone to accompany you.


Initially it was a lot as two engine breathers were plumbed into the oil catch tank, and the tank hello had no breather on it. Oil was pissing out of it.

I've removed one of the breathers from the catch tank and its reduced to a drop.

I also had oil leaking from the timing chain cover which also appears to have stopped.

Currently the split pin is always wet, and I get a drop or two every 2nd time the car goes out.

Does this sound acceptable?


Toooooo hard mate :oops: ....what you have said....is that an overpressure situation has occurred...which you have corrected and the symptoms have gone away...

However, the timing case seal has been blown once (by your own admission), therefore, it may be prone to leak again....

The other thing to contemplate, is how much oil is spattered around or is lying in your clutch housing....

Ummmmm.....not meaning to be clever....but...."I get a drop or two every 2nd time the car goes out"....what does out mean :?: a descent long run on high speed roads where the engine experiences a range of revs OR around the block :?: :?

To me.....this engine does not sound like a good candidate to thrash around Tassie (I could be wrong and I often am :roll: )

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