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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:36 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 2:49 pm
Posts: 1556
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Hey all, I've officially started on "BIG HP 998" tonight.... started pulling down a spare motor i had lying around (9Y/Ta/........)
Turns out to be 0.060" over ..... sweet, if it cleans up with a quick hone, then all is well, otherwise its an anchor....

But anyway, the point is... trying to take off the flywheel ... I pulled out my trusty BMC Flywheel puller, threaded the 3 bolts into the flywheel about 2" and then proceeded to tighten the centre bolt , all ready to release the flywheel with a satisfying little pop....

this did not happen... one of the "Leg" bolts, pulled out of the flywheel !!!

the thread was already stuffed by the previous builder !!! :x :x :x :x :x :x :x

So, anyone have any ideas on how to get the FLywheel off ? - I'm happy to sacrifice the flywheel, i have a "DRMINI ST" flywheel here so the single-piece one is going to get turfed anyway.... but i'd like to save the crank and the housing . . . .

Little help ?
J

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Tap the flywheel holes out to 7/16" and buy 3 new bolts..
They are 3/8" UNF now.

Get grade 5 or 8, not Chinese cheese ones...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:44 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 2:49 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Yea, thats what i was thinking.....

I'm thinking that the PO didnt have the flywheel bolt tight enough (i undid it without even a little sweat) and the taper has micro-welded...... :?

thanks Kev....
J

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:48 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
People use bolts with worn threads, eventually these pull the threads out of the flywheel. And the 1 piece one is `Detroit Wonder Metal', not steel. Easier to strip.

Tip- keep an eye on all the threads (including centre bolt), and oil them well.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Tap
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:56 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
If you can get any sort of purchase on the flywheel with the existing bolts, another puller or Kevs bigger bolts....try carfully whacking the back of the flywheel with a short piece of hardwood and a BFH...use the biggest lump of wood that will fit through the starter motor hole.

dont keep hammering in one place....one or two descent hits should be enough....the second you should rotate the flywheel 180 (yep loosen off, turn the engine then apply tension again.

be careful because they can let go with a bang....some fall off easy, others... well....

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Last edited by 9YaTaH on Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:00 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:39 pm
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
it is possible to drive it out from the starter motor hole. Takes time and patience though. Thats how i did it when one of my bolts snapped with the thread still stuck in the flywheel :? Long metal pole and a big ass mallet!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:27 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Very best place to hit them (ONLY if you must!!) is on the side of the taper, with puller tightened up. Use a big copper drift and a VBFH...

Careful, hitting them thru the starter hole. I've scrapped flywheels due to bad bruising on the back, they are only cast iron and crack easy.
And in a RHD car, we all KNOW where they go when they shatter....
:shock:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
B F H through the starter hole

easy-peasy

spin 1/3 of a turn every hit & hit the ring gear

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

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