i have a remote gearbox but i have a left and right engine steady, beacues my car used to be a rod box.

now my question is can i take the stead under the thermostat out?, if its nots supposed to be there on remote boxes i suppoze it doesnt matter but i just want to be sure.

Depends , doesn't hurt to hold things steady , I snapped an engine steady on an earlier mini at the traffic lights , don't know how it did but it's not a good feeling when your motor starts bouncing backwards and forwards in the engine bay ..... What size motor have you got ?

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it will not kill it... my 1275 remote does not have a right side steedy... and if you look at all the turbo minis I think the dont have em also due to the bulk head been cut out

I totally disagree, i have a 1275 an i was getting a fair bit of movement in my engine, however silly me didnt thing much of it. but then i went for a boot out king lake direction iI ran into a spot of bother. With all the engine movement I was getting, my 3 into 1 extractors blew completely apart where the 3 pipes join into 1. this happend 2 hours from home . I then put a left hand steady on it and the engines like a rock. If you have taken it off, i suggest you put it back on

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1275 + weber = fun

I run a big HP 1360 on a remote box, with only the original standard steady. Never felt the need for the rodchange one, all it does IMO is make it hard to work on things.
Cooper S neither had it nor needed it.
Remote box has a `torque arm' anchored in the tunnel, nearly 1M long, so has no need for another top steady.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

get a remote box The Ultimate Engine Steady

The 1275 Californian I use to have (slightly hot) had a habit of snapping the mounting bracket not the steady. After the third time I had one welded up specially and it didn't break again. It started to snap drive shaft/axles after that ??????