how can i split the ball joints with out the puller tool

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Belt the FRONT of each top and bottom arm.
Undo the balljoint nut until you have exposed a few threads (still so the nut is grabbing)
then belt the control arms HARD.
WIth a heavy mallet.
You will know once the balljoint is loose because (with the top) it will slip down.
The bottom... just use a pry bar and belt the bottom arm.


I'm sure someone else can explain it better

with a BFG

Big F_____G Hammer.
+
Swearing
+
Beer.


Go For It.

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No more Minis!......For now.

OR...go spend $30 at Autpro / Supercrap and get ureself a splitter. They are REALLY worth it.

Autopro Sell These ----

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No more Minis!......For now.

use 2 hammers one on either side hitting them at the same time, the ball joint will just fall out without any damage.
try not to hit the threads as most people only use one hand and cant control the other hand.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

thanks i got them out. too bad there is play with the new outer bearing so i need locktight. i also fould piston rings being used as spacers. the a "s" front hubs does nayone no why u would do this

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

they are not piston rings, they are spacers put there to keep the inner seal away from the Timken bearing cone.
Standard part, but NLA now I think.
Yes I've seen them missing too, then you need to be careful how you position that seal.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.