Just listening in the background. If you can pick up a kit and do the whole job for under 4k sounds like a bargain. My setup owes me around 11k. I think I got jipped somewhere. With regards to the ignition setup, the beauty of a supercharger is that the curve can be graphed similarly to a standard engine. Only problem I found was due to the oversupply on startup it flooded easily and end result was no thunderous noise to wake the neighbours. Solution was a Mallory ignition setup, usually found on V8 street machines. SImilar to a coil except deriving a charge straight from the battery it delivers a hell of a spark to what is basically a fairly standard S dizzy, although lightened and regraphed. Bounce is a problem apparently at higher revs but the alternative of switching to electronic setup may not be worth the outlay. Combined with retracted nose plugs, ignition problem fixed. Haleluja

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

hey, thanks for posting - that's interesting... The guy who did the kit said he has problems on his 14psi blown 1100 with the spark blowing out (!) - I guess the retracted nose plugs prevent that?

I'll look up the mallory ignition setup - I live in V8 country, so there are plenty of meatheads (I mean street machine heads) to ask about it, I get some wierd looks when I start to talk mini

I reckon your 11k will be cheap in the long run if it can survive 204hp for more than a few laps around Lakeside or whatever your local track is. Care to give any more details of your hardware?

The carb couldnt fit any closer in my situation... If i was to change to a flatter carby (eg weber), i could have it much closer to the blower, but the SU is a very upright carb - i'd need a 4 inch lump in the bonnet if it was any closer Not what i want to do...

I'm also having a few belt alignment/bracket problems at the moment, SO bad that i'm going to redesign the whole setup AGAIN (for the 4th time) ..... I'm looking at moving the carb so it faces forwards, alongside the drivers side headlight, behind the bonnet...

Ignition at the moment is a modified Lucas dizzy - the bob weights are lengthened to limit the total advance... but I've got a Pulsar electronic dizzy here that is getting modified to suit the SC....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Happy to help with any details to get you going. With reguards to holding together, my fingers are crossed. After it is run in will add the NOS, then cross toes as well.
G

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

SC850 what drive setup are you using. My motor had belt problems at high rpm, as the belt would simply work its way off. Fitted a gilmer drive and welded plates to the front and back of the pulleys so the belts cant jump off and never slip. Totally cured belt problems and allignment is no longer crucial. Benefit is it sounds like a top fueller drag car. SICK...Is a bitch if you need to change belts though, have to disconnect at the head.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

I'm using the standard type of "new car" v-belt to drive it (has 4 V's on the inside and a flat back..... i know it has a name, but.... cant remember)

My main problem is that the brackets are not perfectly in line.... but its not too bad considering it was all built with the engine in the car....

I'll pull the engine out and try again..... eventually ( the motor's getting replaced with an "all out" 1380, no expenses spared.....)

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

It's called a `PolyVee' belt..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

SC850 sounds interesting. Are you doing the build yourself or having it done?? Keep me posted. Would love to know how it goes. I was warned about BORE FLEX????? Or block flex or something to that effect if I bored it too big and boosted it? Spent ages looking for a virgin block to build it, so would be interested in knowing if that flex thing is for real or an urban myth? What you got planned for the rest of the build, anything interesting??

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

bore flex is a real thing - god, er, I mean David Vizard writes about it. If you go too big, the walls between the bores, particularly between 2 and 3 flex, letting compression go down the sides of the pistons, but worse the bores'll crack pretty soon... SC850, I'm impressed that you're still running the 850 - I reckon you should keep on developing that - why not go twin cam blown 850 instead - check this out....

http://www.users.qwest.net/%7Eshuko/

BMW K1100 motorbike 16 valve head, nearly drops right on.... 850 block is best cos it's short - no bonnet mods required

...but leaves no room for the supercharger setup....


And YES, i'm doing it ALL myself (except for the mandrel bent pipes) The 850 is simply a TRIAL motor.... if the setup works i will create a large motor for it.... if it blows up WHO CARES!!!!

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs