Hi all,

I'm looking at replacing my floor pan, because whoever owned my mini before I, had welded some sheet metal straight over the old floor, and I have no idea why, it looks like its just got surface rust onthe underside of the car, so I'm thinking of just replacing the floor. What sort of welder will I need to complete this? My dad has an arc welder and can weld, but will an Arc welder be sufficient?

Also, my A-Panels (the bit where the ext. hinge bolts to the car) have both been pushed in from the hinges, how is the easiest way to repair this, replacement panels? My mini is looking like its gonna take more body work than I thought, so I wanna do it right so I don't ever have to come back to it (unless a colour change).

I can get pictures if you need them.

An ARC welder will 'burn baby burn'.... You will end up with holes galore.

MIG only, or I have seen people braze with OXY.

I borrowed a MIG and did mine myself (but I have been trained in welding) but your old man could hire one and use it. If he knows how to ARC weld well then MIG is piss easy.

I's quite a big job to cut out and weld your floor pans. Ask for a lot of advice before doing anything, but you have the right idea to replace them now!

As for your A pillars, are they pushed in badly where the hindges sit? Mine has slight depressions in the same spots, and I figures a good gasket between the hindge and panel will suffice.

Anton.

Well there not massive depressions, more like a couple of mm's. Mabey 2 or 3 mm at most. What about welding over then grinding back? Fibreglass body filler?

filler?!?!??! nooooooo no no no no.....

I was tempted recently by an original Cooper S for 5k (unrestored and not running).

Both A Pillars had been filled with bog. One of the doors had FALLEN OFF because bog just isn't the same as metal.

If you weld over the top and grind back, don't use any filler of any description. Aim for total coverage with the welds. This would probably work OK, but a point to note is that a weld is not as strong as solid metal. Welds can break if not done properly.

Again, mine sound the same as yours and I am confident that a gasket will take up the depression. If not, I am fooked!!

How do these dents form anyway?

How do the dents form?

My guess is:
Someone removed the retaining strap; had the door open one day and along came a big wind, or they flung it open too far; either one would do it.

When I did my passenger floor replacement, I did a combination - tacked with a MIG, and braized in with an oxy. As Anton said, you would'nt want to Arc weld it.

Be aware that the replacement panels you buy from Karcraft etc do not always have the same profile and indents as your old floor so may need some finessing.

Depending on which side you are doing, remember the fuel line and brake lines run down there on the passenger side.

I'll be doing both sides, front and back maybe. The car is all stripped with parts everywhere in my garage, I'm yet to take the fuel/brake lines off yet though. I have most of the exterior paintwork stripped, but this interior was bothering me.

Any idea on pricing for panels? I've sent a quote submission to Karcraft, so hopefully there not completley out of reach for me.

They would be your cheapest I would think. Get a second quote from Heritage MG in Smithfield. They might be priced better, and they courier / post to you.

1 KC25L PANEL - FLOOR PAN - MINI (LH)(PRE ROD CHANGE) $36.43
1 KC25R PANEL - FLOOR PAN - MINI (RH)(PRE ROD CHANGE) $36.43
1 KC26L PANEL - FLOOR PAN - MINI (LH)(ROD CHANGE) $36.43
1 KC26R PANEL - FLOOR PAN - MINI (RH)(ROD CHANGE) $36.43

Prices from Karcraft ^^

Now how do I know what gearchange I have??

How do you tell what type of gear change mechanism? -

Have a look at the gearbox from underneath the car to one side (assuming its still installed), ie kneel down beside the drivers door and peer underneath the car.

From the back of the gearbox to where your gearstick is/should be - Can you see two rods connected to the back of the gearbox with roll-pins holding them in and those same two rods going to a mechnism at the gearlever base? It's a rod-change gearbox.

If you do the above and all you can see is an enclosed housing with no internals visible -its a remote housing/gear change mechanism.

Generally the year model and type (ie round-nose, clubman etc) will tell you, but with cars these old changes can and will be made. For example I have a very early Clubman which is supposed to have a remote box, but has been changed to a rod change.

OK, well its a remote-change then, its got the big housing. So later models have rod change then yeh? Its a Morris Mini Deluxe, YMA2S2, but I can't find any year model or year dates on anything so far. Only thing I know is that the engine has been transplanted for an 1100.

If it's a Mini Deluxe with remote, it's possibly the old Deluxe gearbox still (no synchro on 1st) or maybe it's been replaced with a Mini- K `4 synchro' box. They look pretty much the same from outside..
Check the number cast on the front of the box, behind the oil filter.
If 22G1128, it's a Mini- K or Clubbie remote box. Stronger than the early 3 synchro ones, they have the same gearset as the `A' series rodchange boxes.

Remote boxes are better located than rod change.... They don't climb around in the car when you change gear..

<edit> Oh yeah, the floor...
I did the 2 front pans on my 850 and it went pretty well with MIG-
Make sure car is level when you start- don't do it hanging on a Mini sidejack..
Do 1 side at a time
Make sure the doors still fit properly as you go
Don't cut thru the battery cable, or fuel, hydro, brake lines...!

Note-
Karcraft's panels are UK made- won't fit an Oz hydro floor too well, unless it's a real early Deluxe (without the tray pressings underneath).

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.